Perch

The Verdict

Whoever thought of pairing dumplings with cocktails deserves a medal. And no one does this combo better than Perch—formerly known as Xuxu Dumpling Bar. This newly-revamped spot, which was a fan fave with Aucklanders before being forced to shut its doors for over a year due to Covid and other complications, has finally returned to Britomart and we cannot contain our excitement (nor our drool).

While many elements of the OG bar remain the same (the incredible level of food, for example—more on that in a mo), the space itself has been given a solid refresh and guys, it's even better than before.

Oozing eclectic oriental vibes, we're especially loving the giant sack lampshades, and the cheeky stuffed kingfisher which Xuxu enthusiasts might recognise from 'the old days'—now a sort of unofficial mascot, watching over punters from its dedicated perch (aha!) above the bar.

However it's the outdoor area that's undergone the most notable transformation, and we're here for it. What was formerly an enclosed courtyard is now a gorgeous sun-soaked patio almost twice the size, spilling onto the sidewalk in a sea of pot plants and greenery. The perfect place to see, and be seen.

Now that we've set the scene, let's dig into the food. Dumplings remain the star of the show here, and for good reason. Masterminded by Nathan Houpapa (executive chef across the Comensa dynasty that also includes Cafe Hanoi and Ghost Street), these delicately-crafted morsels tick all the right boxes and by that we mean they're plump, juicy, and undeniably delicious, packed full of far eastern flavours that make our tastebuds sing (and dance, and sing some more). If you ever wanted to know what Auckland's best dumplings taste like, Perch is the perfect place to commence your research.

And with five different varieties to get amongst, you might as well make a meal of it and try them all. It's hard to play favourites with a menu so tight, but the prawn and pea shoot crystal dumplings definitely have a special place in our hearts and evidently, our stomachs. These bad boys are so packed full of goodness they're practically bursting out of their almost-invisible wrappers, and come drizzled in an XO chilli oil that only makes them more irresistible. Excuse us if we don't straight-up ditch the chopsticks, and pour these babies straight from the steamer into our mouths.

However the pork and prawn shaomai are also worth lifting the lid on, and let's not forget about the Impossible 'pork' wontons with Sichuan oil and soy—'Impossible' of course referring to the cult plant-based meat brand that's hugely popular overseas and has been picked up more recently by restaurants here. The bottom line: no one's going home hungry.

Tack on a round of moreish roast duck spring rolls, served with crisp cos lettuce leaves and garlic chilli sauce for dipping—some shredded vege salad tossed in honey sesame dressing—and a bowl of mashed garlicky cucumbers, and you have yourself a feast fit for an emperor.

Which brings us to the drinks. While there's your usual beer, wine and even bubbles up for grabs, cocktails are the speciality here and play perfectly to the East Asian theme. The pretty pink Toulouse—a rosé and hibiscus sour laced with elderflower—is an absolute knockout; while the Lady of the Lake will stop you in your tracks as much for its colour (vivid blue) as its taste (a dangerous combo of Hendricks gin, Cointreau, lime and rosemary).

And that's not to overlook their gorgeous alcohol-free number, the Amethyst. Deriving its rich purple hue from butterfly tea combined with Warners 0% juniper gin, lemon, thyme and rosemary, this one certainly gives the boozy bevvies a run for their money.

So whether you're a Xuxu fan of old or new to this spot altogether, there's only one thing for it: come on down and grab yourself a perch (don't pretend you didn't see that one coming).

Image credit: Anna Cassandra Goh, Anna Kidman.