Restaurants

Pearl Cafe: Beast and Beaujolais

By Kate McCart - 23 May 2012

Beast and Beaujolais at Pearl Café really goes the whole hog. Potluck roast, cheese board and beautiful French wine for only $35 on a Wednesday makes it Brisbane's best-kept secret (until now…). 

Walking through the café and up a hidden wooden staircase, you're engulfed in an air of exclusivity. Expecting the secret pathway to lead to a pokey attic room, I was more than impressed to find a cosy, dimly-lit kitchen. With smoke-stained walls from the fire that shut down the café for a number of months last year, the room has that rustic French farmhouse kinda charm. 

Taking a stool around the well-worn stainless steel bench that fits an intimate group of six, the restaurant manager, Michael, made us all feel at home. Just like Mum feeding her hungry children, he persistantly filled up our seemingly bottomless glasses of wine while forcing Levain baguette and the most amazingly salty butter down our throats like foie gras.

It must be noted that you've never tasted butter so good (and I don't mean to harp on about the butter, but in fact the fabulous local produce served up). Cultured and churned at a small farm in Picton, New South Wales, by Pepe Saya, it's what you would expect if cheese and butter miraculously reproduced. And, yes, it has prompted The Urban List to do a revoltingly indulgent butter round-up (Interested? Watch this space!). 

Now for the piece de résistance… The Beast. Vegos heed my advice and steer clear of this European epicure, unless you can forgive the chef for serving up a whole suckling pig (I told you they go the whole hog). With crispy crackling and braised radicchio, it was a hearty feast. Excuse the ridiculous phrase, but it really was fit for a king. Later reveling in a wooden serving board of French and Tasmanian cheeses, everyone perched up at the bench was more than satisfied. I think the odd person (or two) unbuttoning the top button of their jeans tells a tale.   

With the evenings getting chilly, Beast and Beaujolais is the perfect winter warmer. Celebrate hump day upstairs at The Servery at Pearl; diners downstairs will curiously wonder where you've emerged from all rosy-cheeked and romanced. I hear whispers that their next spread is roast duck... 

Where: The Severy at Pearl Cafe | 28 Logan Road in Woolloongabba

Contact: 07 3392 3300

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