MAMA

Step into the cobbled laneway of Newmarket’s Osborne Lane and make a beeline to the newest eatery on the block—Mama—and transport yourself to an Italian summer. 

Stylish, curved marble tabletops speckled with grey and swirls of brown sit under cream-coloured fabric umbrellas, surrounded by pops of green from a lush, lemon tree and rows of fragrant rosemary, sprawling thyme and sage as you enter the front courtyard. Once inside, it feels like you’ve stepped into Mama’s house in the Italian countryside—the walls and furnishings in shades of warm browns and deep rusty red tones match the orange brick cobblestones outside. With the fit-out by Wonder and Hannah Souter behind the brand, Mama is a reflection of the warmth of Italian family tables and you can feel it as soon as you come in.

Greeted by a beautiful painting of a motherly figure at the front of the room (custom painted by the multi-talented Hayley Brown of The Art Dept), you can find various mama figures painted around the restaurant from the artist too. Hand-written inspirational quotes from the O.G. Mama (queen of hospitality, Emerald Gilmour) and various customers are pinned to the wall above the vitrine—a tradition carried on by daughter and co-owner of Mama Mimi Gilmour, along with business partner Leisha Jones.

Best friends since they were 15 years old, they never planned to open a restaurant together. Having always bonded over a shared love of all things food, cooking and hosting, as well as having worked in hospitality their whole lives, and with both of them being Mamas as well—working on this restaurant came easily, naturally, and above all, fun. For Mimi, the inspiration of Mama was inspired by her family, especially her Mama—who taught her that cooking is an act of love, and great hospitality is about making people feel seen and lifted. It was a return to what they both truly love, and something that they wanted their kids to see too. A space that became too big for Mimi’s Burger Burger in Newmarket after ten years, transformed into Mama—a space filled with the generous and comforting love language of food, just like being at Mama’s table. 

Terracotta lampshades hang from high wooden ceilings bringing pops of golden light, alongside streams of sunlight coming in from the skylights above. It catches the disco ball (two of them, in fact) and specs of light dance around the restaurant, lighting up the dark red dahlia and amaranth floral arrangement by the bar, and bouncing off the silver water jugs sitting on top of the vintage vitrine. A deep mahogany vitrine sits at the front of the room, repurposed from its former Burger Burger and York Street life—it feels like it’s always been there—and is the first and last point of interaction at Mama’s.

Bottles of Aotearoa and Italian wines are neatly displayed next to emerald green glasses inside, and the top serves as a counter space. Each part of the dining space feels cosy, with booths for private conversations, round dinner tables for family gatherings and a semi-private dining room off to one side. The bar is adorned with bowls of limes, lemons and oranges (an art piece in itself), and the open kitchen sits at the back, the kitchen pass framed with cans of Italian tomatoes stacked neatly above, and a freshly baked loaf of focaccia cooling below.

Mama’s menu is led by Executive Chef Joe O’Connell (formerly from Ozone), highlighting simple and comforting Italian classics with great Aotearoa produce. The menu can be enjoyed in so many ways. From drinks and small snacky plates for a light dinner, to pizza night, steak night (with a big glass of Italian red) or indulging in the comforts of their signature vodka red sauce spaghetti to yourself—there’s something at Mama’s for however you feel, every day of the week. They also have a dedicated kids menu, and love having families in for early dinners. 

Whatever your menu choice, start with a freshly-baked slice of their flavoursome potato focaccia—baked using a mixture of grains, including stone-ground flour from Canterbury’s Minchins Milling to give it that unique nutty taste. Choose from add-on’s like Hawke’s Bay olives, or their house-made sheep’s milk ricotta—creamy and smokey, topped with confit tomatoes rendered into a sweet jammy texture.

Other starters include their take on baccalá—crispy salted cod fritters with a bright green rocket mayo, or Vitello Tonnato (Leisha’s fave starter, along with the pickled mussels), an underrated dish featuring thinly sliced pearl veal, served with tuna mayo and crispy pops of capers.

The rest of the menu is divided into pannuozzo, pasta, mains, pizzas and sides. For a light lunch on the go, opt for a fresh from the oven panuozzo—they’re like a next-level sandwich (a.k.a. “pizza sandwich”). Crispy pizza dough is brushed with garlic, folded and then stuffed with your choice of fresh fillings. From mortadella, prosciutto, and finocchiona, to peppers and eggplant with walnut caponata, this isn’t any ordinary lunchtime sandwich situation. 

As well as the signature spaghetti—complete with meatballs made with Wanaka chorizo and Lake Ohau wagyu, other pasta picks on the menu include rich guanciale bucatini carbonara, vibrant green rigatoni with zucchini and hazelnut pesto, and Mama’s take on lasagne. Lasagne corner lovers rejoice, Mama’s version gives all the crispy textural bits and big flavours.

The ragù bolognese is made with beef, venison and liver for that savoury oomph, layered and baked by the trayful, then cut into slices and grilled with a bold reinterpretation—an intentionally burnt top, reminiscent of the highly sought-after corner piece at the dinner table.

Do steak night right and opt for Hurunui sirloin with bone marrow butter, while vegetarians will fall in love with Mama’s eggplant parmigiana that will convert even those that don’t eat eggplant. Charred whole and crumbed, giving way to a subtly smoky and silky interior—and topped with bubbling smoked provola for another layer of savoury flavour.

Other mains include pork cotoletta with a fresh fennel salad, and green risotto (with the option to add-on Gisborne snapper). Mama’s sides are a snapshot of the season—expect seasonal salad leaves from local Kelmarna community farm, juicy heirloom tomatoes during the summer months, and crunchy chopped cos brushed with anchovy crema and crispy bits of pangrattato (a perfect addition to steak night, might we add). 

With magherita, burnt eggplant and pepperoni in the pizza line-up—as well as a standout white-base pizza with cavolo nero crema, lemon ricotta and pickled lemon, look no further than Mama’s for pizza night. Pair it with their carefully curated list of Italian wines by the glass (thanks to Pete at By The Bottle) or grab a bottle from their extensive list of Aotearoa and global wine list, as well as their selection of “Italian Icons.”

If you’re partial to a cocktail (and you will be with this list), Mama’s cocktails (and mocktails) are vibrant, refreshing and perfect with a long lunch situation. From freshly-squeezed orange juice in their Garibaldi, to Champagne Pina Colada with coconut sorbet (like a grown-up spider of sorts)—why have an ordinary cocktail when you can sip on an umeboshi plum paloma or burnt lemon vodka lemonade instead. Designed by the talented restaurant manager Liz Ginders (previously Ponsonby Road Bistro), the cocktail list is a must as part of the Mama experience. 

Desserts include small bites like dark chocolate vermouth truffles or pinenut biscotti (great with a Supreme coffee or espresso martini), local gelato from Little ‘Lato, or for those after something savoury, Monello and Gorgonzola from ViaVio with house crackers. You can’t go past without their main dessert offerings too—from vanilla panna cotta with stewed summer fruit, indulgent tiramisu made with their own sponge and soaked in Amaro, to their signature tart. With layers of Marlborough hazelnut frangipane, intense jammy strawberry and buttery shortcrust pastry, it’s giving strawberries and cream meets jam on toast, with hazelnut praline. You’ll definitely want to save room for dessert. 

Open all day, this is a welcome addition to the Tāmaki Makaurau casual dining scene. Whether you’re after a long lunch with family, early dinner with the kids, quick bite in the sun, drinks with friends, or dinner for two—head to Mama’s.

Words by: Vicki Young | Imagery: Alex McVinnie (Images 1-6), Malcolm Campbell (Image 7)