RETURN

Return is husband and wife hospitality duo Matt and Barbara Lambert’s nod to their Aotearoa homecoming—a return to an independent restaurant, to where it all started in Aotearoa, and a return to Matt’s modern interpretation of award-winning Aotearoa cuisine. 

As soon as you step in, it feels slick and elegant. The lighting is warm and not too bright, the space feels soft, with textured fabrics and wooden accents. The restaurant has been brought to life with the help of a close-knit collective of friends and collaborators across design and fit-out including Obery Studio, as well as branding by Dominic Mondavi.

Deep blue hues from the logo are reflected throughout—lush blue drapes along the entrance welcome guests as they enter the restaurant, while comfy navy banquettes line the walls. Crisp white tablecloths set the scene for the dining experience ahead (not “fine-dining” but “intentional dining,” as Matt says). The space feels familiar and welcoming, with thoughtful touches like local ceramics from Mr. Potter and sleek polished glassware and cutlery (you’ll also spot custom made knives from Champion Knives on tables too).

The showstopping sunken bar with a live-edge Kauri top takes centre stage. This is where their resident mixologist Kelly shakes up Return’s creative cocktail offerings—think candied basil and their twists on the classics. It’s Friday night and the place is humming with groups at tables, solo diners, and couples perched around the bar.

The Lamberts are no strangers to hospitality, both having met while working in Tāmaki Makaurau. Chef Matt was born in Auckland and cut his teeth in hospitality from the age of 14, where his career began out West, as a dishwasher. He trained in Tāmaki Makaurau and Pōneke and later worked at (now closed) The Grove under chef Michael Meredith.

It was there where he met his now wife, Barbara. Originally from Connecticut, Barbara studied fine arts and moved to Aotearoa in 2005, working front-of-house at The Grove. Barbara and Matt married, and relocated to New York in 2006, where they opened The Musket Room. She went on to play a central role in building The Musket Room’s international reputation, overseeing front-of-house and operations. In 2013, the restaurant received a coveted Michelin star within four months of opening. This was retained until they closed in 2020. 

When the Lamberts returned to Aotearoa in 2021, Matt worked as executive chef for Rodd & Gunn’s Lodge Bar's two locations across Tāmaki Makaurau and Queenstown. Barbara also worked within The Lodge Group, leading front-of-house operations across both Aotearoa and Australia. Last year, they began to focus on their new chapter, Return, after finding their Ponsonby Road site (previously home to Ponsonby Road Bistro). The doors finally opened in April.

Dinner ranges from their short or long story tasting menus (from six to ten courses), and a la carte, bolstered by daily specials (on the night we visit that happened to be South Coast crayfish and fresh black truffle). To pair with the food, Jim Turner, who runs Return’s beverage programme, has constructed a thoughtful wine list with a focus on some of New Zealand's best producers. 

Our dining journey began with a nostalgic nod to Kiwi childhood, refined into a one-bite wonder of flavours and textures. Cue Matt’s take on fish n’ chips: a shatteringly crunchy beer battered cracker which tasted like all the tasty end bits from the bottom of an FNC pack, with cured white fish to top, pops of crunchy pickled onions, fresh herbs and house-made tartare, served up on a perfectly cut square of local newspaper for that FNC vibe. It was all the best bits in a bite. Next up was what felt like a Sunday Roast in the form of pork rillette and jam on a meltingly tender shortbread—a sweet and savoury mouthful that went so well with their Quartz Reef Méthode Traditionelle Rosé. These first two bites set the scene for the night ahead, cuisine with a modern, playful New Zealand lens driven by quiet confidence in classical technique. I have never been so excited to eat.  

The second round of snacks arrived; creamed pāua fry bread perched on a huge paua shell and nestled among a bed of seaweed gathered from the very same waters as the abalone by Troy and Claire from Tora Collective out in Kāpiti. It was a showstopper. The fluffy bread interior gave way to a burst of minced paua, immediately transporting me to seaside paua fritters on white bread, from summers gone by.

Last but not least, we concluded our snack series with an indulgent piece of bone marrow. It arrived battered and fried with a crisp exterior that belied a luxuriously silky interior. Bursts of seaweed vinegar balance a fatty, creamy and savoury piece of fresh kina draped on top. Set on a beautiful light-green ceramic kina shell, it was a celebration of Aotearoa land and sea in one unassuming bite.

The dishes that followed—from a delicate crudo wrapped around different layers of peppery radishes and creamy mascarpone (paired with a salty and fresh Albariño from Swift Wines), to textbook-tender Cambridge duck with a glossy jus and bread sauce that brought tears of joy to my dining guest’s eyes (reminding her of a refined version of her late nan’s bread sauce)—brought Aotearoa produce to the forefront. It was powerful, not only in flavour and technique but also in the messaging around championing the many small growers, makers, hunters and producers to collectively tell Aotearoa’s food story. 

The wine match for each dish is equally as carefully considered. Each glass is a celebration of Aotearoa wines, from unique bottles to winemakers the Lamberts have got to know over the years, along with thoughtful international additions too. The wine pairing is a must for anyone who appreciates wine; it’s an expert deep-dive into the wine scene here in Aotearoa, with Jim explaining the thought process behind each pairing and the stories behind each vintage, adding to the magic of the dining experience. I won’t forget that crisp and dry Mondillo Riesling from Bendigo, Central Otago anytime soon, with distinctive a nose filled with citrus, quince and hints of apple. 

With apple on my mind, Matt arrived at our table with dessert—a study of apple, dotted with a savoury-sweet miso and fragrant lemongrass that almost had me fooled for ginger. The combination was comforting and gently spiced, reminded my tastebuds of apple crumble, buoyed by a refreshing lick of yoghurt sorbet.

Petit fours arrived on an array of green ceramics with fern, harakeke and kawakawa patterns, along with a sunshine-yellow bee from Auckland artist Steiner Ceramics. Each art piece was adorned with a different bite-sized sweet to finish; a kind of (edible) art piece in itself. We nibbled on dark chocolate bon bons, pate de fruits, nougat, chocolate-dipped honeycomb and my favourite, a salty-sweet marmite toffee caramel.

As we were enjoying our last course, the table next to us were just beginning their long story. It was so special to see their excitement as the courses arrived, just as we had experienced—the return of nostalgic memories from a dish, a celebration of Aotearoa ingredients, and the introduction of flavours and textures that spark conversation. That’s the magic of Return’s dining experience. It's a place for celebrations and special occasions, both for locals and visitors alike, to experience a taste and celebration of Aotearoa. 

Words by: Vicki Young | Image credit: Babiche Martens (Images 1-4), Amber Soljan (Images 5-7)