‘The Shed’ at Te Motu Vineyard

Just steps away from Tāmaki Makaurau in Ōnetangi valley is Te Motu Vineyard. After a short ferry ride from Britomart and a then quick drive from Matiatia Wharf, we find ourselves at a vineyard, cellar door and restaurant on a hot summery day, just steps away from the water. With the faint sea breeze in the air, we head up the drive to Te Motu Vineyard.

Known as Waiheke’s oldest family vineyard, Te Motu is named after the original name for Waiheke Island—Te Motu Arai Roa, meaning ‘island of long shelter’ in te reo Māori. Rows of lush, green vines run up and down the hill with the vineyard restaurant, ‘The Shed’ (named after its former life) sitting amongst it all. ‘The Shed,’ no longer resembles just the shed, but is extended to include a commercial kitchen space, indoor bar and seating area, and covered outdoor space overlooking the vines. It’s a beautiful spot for a long lunch (and now dinner) with views of endless green hills and blue skies—and a glass of wine in hand. 

Te Motu vineyard started in 1988 by the Dunleavy family who planted their first vines a year later, and celebrated their first vintage in ‘93. To this day, Te Motu vineyard continues to be run by the family, with second-generation Rory Dunleavy continuing the legacy and carrying on the Te Motu vision for his dad Paul (you’ll still find Paul at the restaurant pouring and talking all things wine).

We were also very lucky to have a private tour of the restaurant’s veggie garden from Paul too, wandering through fragrant rows of bronze fennel and colourful edible flowers, planted among golden and red stalks of chard, sprouting seedlings and sprawling climbers. It’s a green oasis with so many things to taste and see—every chef’s green-thumbed dream.

Chef Rowan Stewart has recently returned to lead the kitchen, having worked at Te Motu prior (with Yutak Son, who is now at Bistro Saine). Along with a talented kitchen brigade, the dishes that come out celebrate Aotearoa at its finest—from fresh produce plucked straight from the incredible garden we spotted on our tour (including an off-menu wedge of cabbage, charred until juicily sweet), to the freshest kaimoana sourced from just down the road.

It would be rude not to have a couple of local Te Matuku oysters to start, with lemon and mignonette. For those who don’t dig oysters, pick the green-lipped mussels, gently warmed and draped in a light saffron rouille, topped with crispy shallot and chives. Their raw fish starter is a nod to the kawakawa spotted around the vineyard—dressed in fragrant kawakawa salt and a vibrant green oil, with a spritz of tangy chardonnay vinegar to bring it all in. 

Vegetables are just as celebrated as the meat forward mains (like tender beef ragu and Hawkes Bay lamb rump) making it very hard to choose what to order (you can also choose the option to just trust the chef too). With careful attention to layers of flavours and texture, a silky confit leek and creamy macadamia dish is transformed to convert even the non-leek lovers. Topped with crispy pangrattato and spicy pops of radish and nasturtium leaves from the garden, plus with the option to add guanciale, make sure you do.

It’s another level of savoury-silky, along with an essential focaccia mop—baked daily and with a bubbly blistered top (which comes with whole cloves of confit garlic and a generous rocher of house butter too). Save some focaccia to go with the Pekepeke Kiore (Native lions mane). Cooked until crispy with steak-like edges and a tender fall-apart centre, and dressed with a zingy sauce au poivre which honestly would have fooled me for a vibrant green peppercorn steak. 

Our long lunch was made that much more special with the vertical tasting of Te Motu, their signature Te Motu cabernet-merlot blend over the years—referred to as the purest expression of the vineyard. The knowledgeable and welcoming Quinn Huber looked after our table, and led us through a special vertical tasting of some incredible vintages from over the years.

With each vintage carrying its own unique flavour profile, we sipped our way through herbaceous blackcurrant and cherry to flavours of autumn. It’s a definite must-do while you’re visiting Te Motu—there’s something magical about sipping on the very wine while standing on the soil where it comes from. 

Save room for dessert—their seasonal sweet treats are definitely not an afterthought. The clever pastry chef had just made tiramisu and we were the lucky first to try Te Motu’s version—a large scoop, complete with layers of freshly baked savoiardi (ladyfinger biscuits) soaked in espresso, and mascarpone dusted in cocoa.

With a hint of slightly tangy, deep-caramel sherry vinegar, it was the perfect finish with our accidental pairing—the final tasting glass of a smoky and savoury, almost whisky-like Te Motu vintage from 2000. 

I left with a greater appreciation of Waiheke and how restaurants like 'The Shed' at Te Motu utilise the seasons with garden produce and kaimoana at their doorstep. Flavours are carefully considered, alongside signature wines with such a range of complex flavours—it’s an art seeing everything balance in texture and taste. 

Words and Imagery by Vicki Young