Water Boy

Driving to St Heliers in Tāmaki Makaurau feels like escaping the concrete jungle of the inner city and going beach-side for summer holidays. With pōhutukawa trees lining the street in vibrant shades of red, satin blue waves rolling in the background and the golden sand steps away from the street—we arrive at the newest kid on the block, Water Boy.

We step inside and it feels like the sunshine and beach vibe followed us right on in. The dining space is spacious and light, with sandy-toned paving and textured walls that stretch from the entrance where big open windows look directly out to the water, and all the way to the sun-filled covered courtyard (a thoughtful indoor-outdoor beach house vibe thanks to CTRL Space).

White netted lampshades hang from the ceiling, gently moving with the breeze, like frayed ends from a beach towel hanging in the sun. Playful black and white photographs frame the walls—I spot a vintage beer prohibition print, suits protesting with “We Want Beer” signs across from the bar, curated by Lucy Kirkwood (Friends of Friends) who also worked on the branding and voice for Water Boy (and the clever Water Boy logo design which you'll find on their drinks coasters).

A young black and white Anthony Bourdain poses with attitude, framed right above the kitchen pass like a cheeky reminder, setting the tone for what to expect with Water Boy—playful, fun and with a personality that doesn’t take themselves too seriously. 

Owners Paddy Kean and Victoria Blake are no strangers to hospitality, with the approachable and community vibe from The Corner in Remuera since 2016. Along with a strong crew led by seasoned venue manager from The Corner, Benny Lee, as well as Head Chef Jono Lewington (formerly Barulho, and stints in Scotland and Australia resorts), the level of service is welcoming and relaxed.

The menu reads the same, with an elevated coastal spin on Aotearoa produce—West Coast whitebait not only comes in fritter form, but on a freshly-baked, blistering slab of pizza brushed with fragrant garlic oil and herbaceous rosemary salt. Burgers are juicy, smash burgers and the market fish comes in a classic FNC or pan-seared until meltingly tender—just like the miso brown butter that dressed it. Don’t skip the snack section and get their crowd-favourite, smoked beef bites, which are massive bites at that. Complete with house-made mustard aioli and the essential dill pickle, it’s the ultimate food match to a crisp, cold beer (they do craft and classics like Lion Red on tap).

For something lighter, the long line raw fish tiradito is another standout with bitter grapefruit, sweet pomegranate and spicy, tangy pops of pickled aji amarillo. It’s the perfect pairing with a crisp glass of bubbles (or choose from their extensive range across Aotearoa or across the world), or push the boat out with a specially curated cocktail offering. Water Girl, a peachy pink number made with housemade peach syrup, peach schnapps and prosecco, hit the spot on a hot summer's day.

Don’t skip dessert—theres comforting toffee pud or a refreshing mandarin sorbet (and an ice cream sundae option for kids—with all the sprinkles, wafers and chocolate sauce trimmings). Kids also have their own ‘Little Legends’ menu with approachable offerings like a classic FNC, beef burger and cheese pizza to name a few (which I have no doubt would even please even the pickiest of eaters).

Water Boy brings the sun and fun all day with big beach energy, waves of chill surf club culture, and a coastal pub menu that’s got something for everyone—whether you’re watching the game with a beer, out on a family dinner out or just swinging by from a fun beach day out with friends. Water Boy has only been on the scene for a couple of months and already has all the old-soul vibes of your new favourite neighbourhood local.

Words by Vicki Young | Image Credit: Supplied and Hamish Melville