Za’atar Bakehouse

It’s a rainy morning as I walk up to Lebanese Grocer on K’Road, where their pop-up spot, Za’atar Bakehouse, is open around the corner next door. The flickering flames in the Gozney pizza oven are a warm welcome from the weather, as owners Keelan Bowkett-Assaf and Elie Assaf greet me with a hot coffee. It’s that warm, old-school hospitality with a smile from seasoned hospitality professionals that I get right away—yet it also feels like rocking up to a friend’s place, when they ask if I’m hungry yet. Having been to their restaurants in Pōneke back in the days (I still dream of the Turducken Burger from Five Boroughs and the Not-Impossible vegan ‘meat’ patty from Five & Dime, before it got mainstream), and to Lebanese Grocer for that lunchtime shawarma, I was excited to check out their next offering, in the form of breakfast—Lebanese style.

Chef Elie is rolling out the dough (a.k.a Mum’s Bread) and getting some orders through, and insists that I try one of each. The Za’atar Bakehouse pop-up is a selection of Elie’s take on what was once the Lebanese working class breakfast (and definitely my breakfast of choice)—lahm bi ajeen, a.k.a. Lebanese meat pie and a riff on manoushe (Lebanese flatbread with toppings) with a cheese and za’atar combo. Za’atar Bakehouse it all freshly rolled to order and it’s all part of the experience, watching it from flour-dusted dough to crispy-blistered pie, piping hot from the oven and filled with all the aromatic herbs and spices. 

I chat to Elie while he’s working—he methodically rolls out each piece of dough until it’s almost translucent. It’s calming and mesmerising to watch—he makes it look so effortless. Yet, to any baker you can tell he’s got the knack—that bakers’ intuition to feel for when the dough is just right. It’s something you can see that has had years of experience behind it. Afterall, Elie’s mum taught him how to get the dough—just right, he says. No measuring, no cups or scales by the gram. Just by feel. After years of watching and making it, he’s now bringing Mum’s signature dough to Tāmaki Makaurau for his next venture with the Lebanese Grocer—Za’atar Bakehouse. 

Growing up in Te Whanganui-a-Tara, Elie didn’t always plan to become a chef. Food was a central part of growing up, and became a way of celebrating Lebanese culture with the family and community in Aotearoa. With his parents running the iconic Phoenician Cuisine on Kent Terrace (a definite must-visit whenever you’re in the capital), helping out at the restaurant was a regular part of daily life growing up. Elie fondly recalls his Mum making burgers with a Lebanese twist, which he paid homage to with the burger on the Five Boroughs’ menu on Marjoribanks Street. With Lebanese influences here and there, you wouldn’t have known at first glance, with Five Boroughs being an American-style diner and all—but that’s when it all started, showcasing his interpretation of Lebanese cuisine and culture, in some ways. He talks about his parents’ having to adapt their recipes with what spices were available in Aotearoa at the time, back in the days (and to the Kiwi palette) but now, Elie’s bringing traditional flavours back with the offerings at Lebanese Grocer and Za’atar Bakehouse. We spoke about the food values and the importance of honouring culture in food. He told me he initially didn’t think of putting up Lebanese dishes—it was just something they did at home and something that came as second-nature growing up with all those incredible flavours. It was only when they moved to Tāmaki Makaurau, he realised how much he really missed home—and that’s when it really began. Elie’s expression of home started with Lebanese Grocer, and now Za’atar Bakehouse. With his thoughtful interpretation of recipes he’s grown up with and made his own, it’s something that we’re pretty lucky to have right here on K’Road.

The name Za’atar Bakehouse is a nod to the za’atar made by Elie with oregano grown from his parents’ garden in Pōneke. You can smell it toasting away on their manoushe, every Saturday. Za’atar Bakehouse is a nod to his Lebanese roots and highlights the beautiful produce right here in Aotearoa. The fit-out is light and spacious—dark olive green and with creamy white tones carrying on from the sleek design over at Lebanese Grocer next door. Bottles of olive oil and yellow-green pickled peppers line the back walls. Records (spotted the icon Fairuz there) and colourful shrines dot the next shelf over. Small silver bowls with delicately engraved patterns, all filled with various fillings line the “pass” of the Bakehouse—filled with fresh green herbs, dark green sesame-dotted za’atar, a special cheese blend (more on that later), and plump slices of purple olives. Heirloomacy tomatoes are piled high in shades of reds, yellows and stripes of orange-green on a silver stand—taking centre stage amongst the silver bowls, sliced fresh to order. 

The menu consists of two choices—Wagyu lahm bi ajeen (beef pie) and Cheese and Za’atar manoushe—and it’s all you’ll ever want for breakfast. Wagyu is Elie’s preference to traditional lamb here in Aotearoa—NZ beef is less gamey than lamb, and allows the flavours to really come through. I watch as he dimples the meat mixture over the thin disc of dough with his fingers (to stop it from sliding off, when I ask why). With a flick of the wrist, the paddle catches the dough and it goes into the fire in one swift move. I watch the meat pie come to life—evenly-spread dimpled wagyu (for consistent cooking) is juicily bubbling away, giving a mouth-wateringly savoury fragrance with the vibrant spice seasoning. All gently kissed by the flames, it’s really something to watch as it’s cooked right in front of you. Chef Elie expertly turns the dough to get each curve of the dough blistered to perfection—not an easy feat when working with 400 degrees plus Celcius heat. There’s no timer—just the Chef watching carefully; turning it, dancing the dough around the hot spots until he knows when it’s ready. A strip of bright orange-red shatta (with eggplant added in for a creamy, almost smoky variation) is piped on top, and lastly, a handful of fresh herbs onto the sizzling meat surface. While fresh mint is traditionally used, Elie tells me he adds fresh coriander and Thai basil too—and I can taste exactly why when I take my first bite. The flaky and crisp pastry is thin yet strong enough to hold everything—the juicy meat filling, with the pops of spicy hints from the creamy shatta, and then it all changes flavour between each bite from the medley of fresh herbs. 

The manoushe on the menu is Elie’s take on another brekky classic (usually only just za’atar or just cheese back home, he says). Inspired by always adding both za’atar and cheese to his own breakfast manoushe, this version is pretty special with a custom cheese blend by Elie to mimic Akkawi—the stretchy and salty cheese quintessential to manakish (a.k.a. Lebanese pizza). I don’t think I’ll forget that woody fragrance of flame-kissed za’atar and bubbling cheese—along with freshly cut heirloom tomatoes, bright green herbs, and salty pops of olives. I couldn’t decide between my favourite of the two—and when I asked Keelan and Elie, neither could they. We agreed the favourite changes on the daily and depends on your eating mood—so I think it’s wise to get both when you’re here (they have two orders per person at this stage with just the one chef and oven too). Speaking of cheese,I got to try a wee hand-pie folded with a beautiful pleated crust called fatayer, filled with this cheese blend and brushed with a coating of za’atar on top. It was a transcendent experience, sharing this pie with Keelan and Elie—a moment of quiet content, as we ripped open the pastry (careful not to burn our fingers), to endless stringy cheese dotted with za’atar. Word on the street is that they’ll make an appearance on their weekend pop-up menu, so make sure you get there quick for the cheesy hand-pie special. 

With more days open down the track (plus another menu item to come, as well as another oven in the works), I can’t wait to see what will happen next. Having just opened the pop-up three weeks now, the space opens right up onto the pavement and looks over to the soon-to-open Karangahape Road Train Station. I can already imagine the lucky punters who will get a piping hot parcel of cheesy za’atar on their commute to work.

Za’atar Bakehouse is all about making food that’s true to Chef Elie’s values and culinary voice—with a nod to tradition and culture, while shining a light on the great produce we have right here in Aotearoa. These aren’t any ordinary pies and flatbreads—the technique, flavour and thought that go into each component shows the sheer amount of pride and love for Lebanese cuisine and culture Elie has in sharing this with the community. You’ll find me here on Saturdays, with a lahm bi ajeen and cheesy za’atar manoushe in each hand.

Image Credit: Za'atar Bakehouse | Vicki Young