Food & Drink

Tokoh Is Mermaid’s Playful New Indonesian Restaurant Where Opulence Meets Authenticity

By – who loves morning run clubs as equally as she loves negronis and tiny snack plates

There’s no doubt the Gold Coast has become somewhat of a melting pot of flavours, cultures, and culinary experiences in recent years. Our vibrant foodie scene is continually expanding; an ever-evolving culinary tapestry, where innovative flavours and culinary delights await. However, every now and then, a venue pops up which can only be described as a game-changer. Meet Tokoh.

Derived from the Indonesian word for ‘leader’, Tokoh appears to be just that for the Gold Coast hospitality scene. The slick Indonesian-inspired bar and restaurant comes to us from seasoned Gold Coast hospo veterans, Maddy Norton and Lachlan Cuskelly, owners of Suzy BBQ and Panchos Mexican, formerly of Commune and Etsu Izakaya. So, yes, they know their shit. 

The groundswell around the opening of Tokoh has been resounding, perhaps even deafening, and for good reason. The immersive venue "exudes escapsim in its purest form" and it's essential you experience it in person for the full experience, but we'll give you a sneak peek. Let’s take you inside.

a red disco vinyl room

Situated in the burgeoning Mermaid Beach hub that houses Gold Coast stalwarts like The Glenelg Public House, Bonita Bonita, Canita and Piatto, lies a bold newcomer. Colourful neon lighting shines out like a beacon to thirsty patrons, welcoming you inside.

A bright red island bar commands the space, a disco vinyl room adds a touch of playful elegance and a communal dining table speaks to the very essence of Tokoh—inclusivity, community and connection. Speaking of community, even furry friends are welcome in the outdoor bar space.

a dark dining space in tokoh bar

Tokoh describes itself as “a space built for absurdity and pleasure” and it strives to create a lively space reminiscent of an opulent Indonesian dinner party. Artistic touches, chromed ceilings and unconventional fixtures seamlessly fuse together, creating an alluring space unlike anything we’ve seen.

interior of tokoh bar

The Pre-During-Post dinner menu invites you to choose your own adventure, as you delve into a myriad of Indonesian flavours—with a Tokoh twist, of course. The culinary offerings have been inspired by Maddy and Lachlan’s time in Indonesia and you can almost taste the experiences and memories that have influenced Tokoh’s dishes. Mario Georgiou, formerly of Suzy BBQ and Panchos, heads up the kitchen and his time spent working in Michelin star venues around the world is reflected in his impressive work.

chicken skewers

On the menu you’ll find the usual Indo suspects elevated with inventive tweaks—chicken and prawn nasi goreng enveloped in a parcel, topped with satay mayonnaise and soy-cured egg yolk; a slow-cooked wagyu beef rendang with kaffir lime coconut cream; and soft sambal eggs served with Tokoh tamarind butter and grilled bread. 

corner of tokoh bar with dark interior

The aptly named Yum Yum Tuna Sando is a must-order, with crispy coconut-crumbed tuna steak, pickled cucumber, green papaya salad and sambal mayo and it would be a mistake not to sample the vibrantly purple cabbage skewers topped with mustard coconut curry. As difficult as it may be, save room for the cheekily boozy eggnog affogato with Scoop Gelati’s eggnog gelato, nutmeg and candlenut liquor. 

a white cocktail beverage

Of course, it would be imprudent of us not to mention the drinks. Kaden Pool, an award-winning bartender who has worked in Michelin star venues across Europe, is the mastermind behind the drinks and his clear talent can't be ignored.

A carefully curated selection of wine takes centre stage, ranging from friendly classics to intriguing newcomers. The unapologetically bold cocktail list pays homage to the flavours of Indonesia, starring Indo ingredients and playful flavour combinations. 

Now, it’s time to pull up a chair at Tokoh—it’s truly a one-of-a-kind dining experience where immersive escapism meets unparalleled hospitality.

THE DETAILS

What: Tokoh
Where: 2460 Gold Coast Highway, Mermaid Beach
When: Open Wednesday to Sunday, 4pm to late
For more information, click here.

Image Credit: Lucy Lumen, The Ocean Club & Kristian van der Beek

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