The Abel Tasman Coast Track is a 60 km long tramping track that traces the coastline of Abel Tasman National Park, which straddles Tasman Bay and Golden Bay, northwest of Nelson. One of New Zealand’s Great Walks, the track is a world-renowned tramping destination, attracting hikers from across the globe. And for good reason; its golden-sand beaches lapped by gentle turquoise water and framed by blocky granite headlands and lush native bush make for some seriously-stunning scenes. Usually walked in three-five days, the track offers a cruisy, relaxed vibe, where barefoot wandering and beach hopping is literally part of the adventure. Here’s everything you need to know to start planning your trip to this gorgeous corner of the top of the south.
The History Of The Track
Māori history on the Abel Tasman coast dates back at least 600 years, though the national park’s namesake is Abel Janszoon Tasman, a Dutch explorer who anchored off the modern-day tracks’ northern end, Wainui Bay, in 1642. Though parts were milled, farmed and quarried by early European settlers, the Abel Tasman coast stayed largely untouched thanks to early recognition of its beauty and ecological importance, which ultimately led to the establishment of Abel Tasman National Park in 1942, with development of the Abel Tasman Coast Track beginning the following decade. Thanks to more recent conservation efforts from DOC, Project Janszoon and Abel Tasman Birdsong Trust to eradicate pests and weeds, you’ll enjoy the sights and sounds of tui, robin and kaka, and you’ll almost certainly be harassed by one or more weka on at least one point along the track.
Plan Your Walk
Image credit: Waka on Abel Tasman | Miles Holden.
The southern gateway to Abel Tasman National Park and the Abel Tasman Coast Track is the village of Mārahau, about one hour’s drive northwest of Nelson. The northern end of the track is at Wainui Bay, a 30 minute drive from Takaka in beautiful Golden Bay.
Fancy a boat cruise to cap off your trip? The Abel Tasman Coast Track is serviced by Wilsons Abel Tasman, Abel Tasman Water Taxi and Abel Tasman Sea Shuttles, which make trips up and down the coast (four times daily in summer, twice daily in winter). These give you plenty of options for mixing up your itinerary and a handy way to get back to where you started your walk, and the chance to enjoy some of the local wildlife including native seabirds, seals and if you’re lucky, penguins and dolphins. Bookings are essential. Kaiteriteri and Mārahau are the main departure points for these at the southern end of the track, but check out each operator’s respective website to find out when and when you can catch a boat along the track. Expect a peak season fare from Mārahau to Tōtaranui to cost around $60.
The traditional five-day/four-night option from Mārahau to Wainui will give you plenty of time to make your nightly destination in time to down-pack and laze about on beaches, explore nearby bays and go on for a wander down side tracks. If you’re on a tight schedule, the walk is doable in three days, and you can make the most of the water taxis to jump off early. Read DOC’s guide to get an idea of the times and distances between huts and campsites along the track.
The hardest part of planning your Abel Tasman trip is securing your accommodation. Along the track are four huts and 18 campsites, and given its Great Walk status, these fall under DOC’s annual booking system, where tickets for the following year become available on a set date. Bookings are essential! Huts and campsites fill up fast, and you must book and pay prior to embarking. You snooze you lose, so stay tuned for DOC updates on when ticket sales are open on their website. Kiwis can expect to pay $42 for a hut ticket and $24 for a campsite in the peak season (our overseas guests have to pay a bit more). And don’t be tempted to freeload—DOC hut wardens are on site to catch anyone trying to stay on the cheap. Entry to Abel Tasman National Park is free, so you don’t have to pay if you’re just on a day mission. Abel Tasman Coast Track is great at all times of year, but as you’d expect, summer is the busiest time.
You’ll need to pack your own food for your walk, and use the cooking facilities at the huts and campsites. Supply-wise, Nelson or Motueka are the best places to stock up before you go as Mārahau and Kaiteriteri only have general stores. As you might guess, beaches and the sea are intrinsic parts of the Abel Tasman Coast Track experience. Shades, sunscreen, sandals and a towel or two are essential items to pack (anti-chafing cream too if you plan on sampling the swimming spots along the track). Like humans, sandflies are drawn to the Abel Tasman and so good repellant is a must.
Walking The Abel Tasman Coast Track
Image credit: Abel Tasman | Miles Holden.
Walking the Abel Tasman Coast Track is a breeze by New Zealand tramping standards; the track is well-built, wide and smooth, and with not too many uphill sections (the highest elevation the track hits is 200 m), so you don’t need to be an athlete to tackle it. The main thing to be aware of is the two tidal crossings along the track; Torrent Bay Inlet and Awaroa Inlet. At Torrent Bay, there is an alternative high tide route that follows the edge of the inlet (adding about 1 hour). At Awaroa Inlet, there is no alternative, so you must wait for the window 1.5-2 hours on either side of low tide. Check DOC’s website to get your timings sorted before you go.
Off the main track there are heaps of side tracks to bays, campsites and lookout points. Take your time to explore these as there are some real gems to be discovered. With dozens of equally-stunning bays and beaches all along the track, you’re spoilt for choice with swimming spots, and their usually-calm waters mean they’re all generally safe for swimming.
Cleopatra’s Pool is a cool little detour between Anchorage and Torrent Bay. From the Torrent Bay High Tide Route, take the short track upstream Torrent River, where the river flows over smooth granite bedrock to form a series of natural rock pools, complete with natural waterslide. A choice spot for a refreshing dip, or even just a shady spot to chill beneath the canopy of ferns and beech trees.
Te Matau/Separation Point (so named as it marks the boundary between Golden Bay and Tasman Bay). a two hour deviation off the main track between Anatakapau Bay and Whariwharangi Hut. The track follows a narrow headland to the point, along one of the most rugged sections of coastline in the park. The natural rocky platform at the point provides sweeping views across Golden Bay to Farewell Spit, where you can enjoy the glimpses of fur seals and seabirds soaring in the coastal breeze.
Where To Stay
Image credit: Awaroa Bay | NelsonTasman.nz
Anchorage Hut is the southernmost hut on the Abel Tasman Coast Track, and will be the first port-of-call for most trampers who’ve departed from Mārahau. Set just back from the beach, the hut offers a generously sized cooking and dining area with multiple bunk rooms and a big deck to chill out on. Four hours north is Bark Bay Hut. Nestled amid kānuka trees next to the estuary behind the main beach, and just round the corner from the gorgeous cove of Medlands Beach.
Next up is Awaroa, which for most trampers is an oasis of luxury along the otherwise undeveloped coast. Along with Awaroa Hut (in a great spot overlooking Awaroa Inlet), you’ll find a small settlement of private baches (some are bookable through airbnb and New Zealand Holiday Homes), as well as Awaroa Lodge, which is the main commercial accommodation along the track. Even if you’re not staying, you can stop at the pizzeria and garden bar to refuel on delicious food and coffee. Awaroa Glamping provides another way to enjoy a night of camping at Awaroa with a touch more comfort.
Just up the coast is the sweeping golden beach of Tōtaranui. There’s no hut here, just a big DOC campground, which given its accessibility by road, is a favourite summertime camping spot for many Kiwis, where every year hundreds park up for a week or more.
Further north and into Golden Bay is the northernmost hut on the track, Whariwharangi Hut. Set just a 2 minute stroll from the pristine sands of Whariwharangi Beach, the hut is actually a historic two-storey homestead built in 1896, but restored in the 1980s to accommodate trampers with all its charm intact.
If you’re seeking a bit more seclusion, try camping away from the huts. The national park’s mild climate means you can do so in relative comfort, and with numerous options, but Akersten Bay, Te Pukatea Bay and Mutton Cove are all fine choices to pitch your tent and drift off to the soothing rhythm of breaking waves.
If you’re after something a bit more civilised and budget isn’t an obstacle, consider booking a five day guided walk with Wilson’s Experiences. Enjoy two nights’ stays at each of Meadowbank Homestead at Awaroa and Torrent Bay Lodge at Torrent Bay and enjoy two full days dedicated , sunbathing on the sand, or exploring set to explore .
After The Walk
At the Mārahau end of the Abel Tasman Coast Track is Park Cafe, which couldn't be any more conveniently-located, being literally at the end of the track. Here you can toast your trip with a local beer and enjoy their famous woodfired pizza and a bit of live music in the relaxed atmosphere of their outdoor courtyard.
If it’s sweet treats you’re craving, pay a visit to Smoking Barrel in Motueka, which has established itself as a Motueka institution with its mouth-watering gourmet doughnuts and slow-cooked American BBQ.
At the Golden Bay end, Toto’s Cafe and Pizzeria on the Tōtaranui Hill is the perfect place to replenish your well-earned calorie deficit with fats and carbs in a truly stunning position, with views over the bush-clad ranges that frame Wainui Bay.
Roots Bar on the main drag of Takaka, an inviting place with a quirky yet comfortable setting and where you can indulge in delicious burgers constructed from locally-sourced ingredients and quench your thirst with local craft beers. If you’ve still got the energy after your Abel Tasman adventure, stick around into the evening to see Roots Bar transform into Golden Bay’s premier live music venue, where local and international bands and DJs perform on the regular.
Abel Tasman Coast Track is the clear winner of the title of most relaxed tramp in New Zealand, and one you wouldn’t be wrong describing as a beach-crawl with a pack on your back. So book your hut tickets, pack your gear, and get ready to feel the golden sand between your toes as you soak up the sights and feel of this unique coastal landscape. A must-do for Kiwi and foreign trampers alike, the Abel Tasman Coast Track guarantees an unforgettable tramping adventure.
Main image credit: Abel Tasman | Miles Holden.