The Queen Charlotte Track is a three-to-five-day tramping and mountain biking track that traverses the beautiful Marlborough Sounds. The Sounds are a network of ancient river valleys drowned by rising seas and land subsidence, resulting in an intricate coastline of sounds, bays and headlands, much of which has remained cloaked in native bush. Blessed with high sunshine hours, warm summers and mild winters, the Sounds are one of New Zealand's great natural playgrounds.
The Queen Charlotte Track offers rich Maori and European history, luxuriant native forest, gorgeous secluded bays and no shortage of stunning vistas. Best of all, you can access most of it from settlements along the way which means you can wine, dine and sleep well along the way. Score.
Plan Your Walk
The Queen Charlotte Track can be completed in three to five days, depending on your pace and fitness. But don't let that intimidate you—the track is classed as an ‘easy tramping track’ by DOC, so you don’t have to be a seasoned tramper to manage it. The track’s in pretty good condition, but you’ll still come across bits that are muddy and a bit rough, so definitely wear hiking boots if you’ve got them.
There are no huts; only DOC camping sites, so if you’re budget-conscious or keeping it real and not using private accommodation, you’ll need to pack (and carry) your own tent and camping gear. The campsites don’t have cooking facilities, so you’ll also need to bring your own cookers and utensils, and of course, food! Check out Mountain Safety Council’s handy guide for preparing gear for your walk.
Knowing you’ve got a comfortable bed, hot shower and cold beer waiting for you at the end of each day might just make the walking a little easier. If you decide to treat yourself to one of the many private accommodation options, these range from basic hostel rooms with shared facilities to private apartments in idyllic surroundings. Jump to our suggestions here.
Small bits of The Queen Charlotte Track cross private land, which means one thing all track users need is a QCTLC PASS; a Queen Charlotte Track Permit. It makes sense to buy the five-day pass, for $25, which you can do here.
Ship Cove is the start of The Queen Charlotte Track (at the eastern end) and also the remotest part, as it can only be reached by boat (1 hr 15 min from Picton). Take Beachcomber Cruises, Cougar Line water taxi or E-ko Tour (you’ll need to book in advance). If you really want to take all the hassle off your shoulders (literally), Cougar Line provides a Round Trip Track Pass package, where your luggage can be transported between each nightly accommodation you have booked along the track (you’ll just need to carry your day pack). Beachcomber Cruises also provides a similar service with their Great Track and Pack Pass.
The western end of the Queen Charlotte Track is at Anakiwa, which is 20 min by boat or 30 min by road to Picton (or if you’re really keen, 24 km on foot via the Link Pathway!).
What To Expect
The official website of The Queen Charlotte Track provides a handy day-by-day itinerary for your walk and gives in-depth descriptions of what you can expect. In planning your trip, it’s always better to allow more time so you’re not in a rush and shorter walking days will give you more downtime each day to chill, recharge and a chance to have a swim, go kayaking or even yoga. Consider factoring in a rest day or two (particularly in summer) to fully immerse yourself in the relaxed vibe of The Sounds against the backdrop of gentle waves lapping the shore and native birdsong.
The Queen Charlotte Track of course features stunning natural beauty with primeval native bush, tranquil beaches and vantage points to view epic panoramas, but walking the track can also give you an appreciation of the local Maori and European history, in which The Sounds are steeped. Take your time to read the info panels along the way that describe the history of the Ngati Kuia and Ngati Toa iwi, which occupied the area for centuries. Ship Cove/Meretoto is a significant location in the early European history of New Zealand, being the only place that Captain James Cook used as a point of refuge on all three of his voyages in the 1770s.
The crystal-clear waters you pass along the way will tempt you for a dip, and the good news is most bays and coves are very sheltered and safe for swimming. Sweet spots to cool off include Camp Bay, Mistletoe Bay, Davies Bay, and Torea Bay. If you’ve reached your destination for the day and still have energy to burn, get out on the water by way of a kayak or paddleboard, which can be hired from some of the lodges.
Where To Stay
Accommodation along the track ranges from basic DOC campsites to private luxury lodges, depending on whether you want to stick to a traditional tramping experience or make the most of this rather unique opportunity to tramp with four-star accommodation and dining luxuries.
The larger accommodation options have kitchens and licensed bars, providing sumptuous menus of locally-sourced seafood and produce (if you’re a seafood lover, make sure you try the green-lipped mussel—a Marlborough Sounds speciality!) You can even arrange to have a packed lunch made for your walk the next day.
DOC campsites are the most basic accommodation option on the Queen Charlotte Track and give you the opportunity to spend a night in nature. These are spaced at regular intervals along the track; Bay of Many Coves Campsite, Black Rock Campsite, Cowshed Bay Campsite, Davies Bay Campsite and Schoolhouse Bay. Make sure you check out this map to figure out what you can comfortably manage in a single day. DOC Campsites are the cheapest option at $10/night for adults and $5/night for kids. You can also camp at Mistletoe Bay Eco Village ($18/night) and take advantage of the well-equipped communal kitchen and hot showers.
Treetops Backpackers and Titoki Eco Accommodation provide private rooms with shared bathroom and kitchen facilities, and you can mix adventure with comfort with yurt glamping at Ngahere Hou.
Along the track are well-known Sounds institutions, some of which have accommodated track walkers for decades. Options include Bay of Many Coves Resort, Furneaux Lodge, Punga Cove, Mahana Lodge, Te Mahia Bay Resort, Lochmara Lodge (pictured above), The Portage Hotel and Resolution Bay Cabins and all are set up to cater to the needs of Queen Charlotte Track walkers. Each has its own variety of private studios, apartments, chalets, cottages and cabins, each with private bathroom facilities and some with basic kitchen facilities. Some offer cheaper rates over the winter off-season, though make sure you book your spot well in advance as they get snapped up quickly over the summer season and on holiday weekends.
The Queen Charlotte Track has more than enough to satisfy nature lovers, solitude-seekers and adventure enthusiasts alike. So, if you’re after a unique hiking getaway with the perfect blend of nature and luxury, look no further than the Queen Charlotte Track, and immerse yourself in the unique natural wonder of the Marlborough Sounds.
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Image credit: Miles Holden, MarlboroughNZ, Miles Holden, Queen Charlotte Track, Booking.com.
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