269 Parnell

The Verdict

It seems like 269 Parnell was under construction for millennia, so much so that the painted ‘share the dream’ wall out front had become part of the suburb’s scenery and we’d long stopped expecting anything to materialise behind it. 

But then, on 7 December it opened. 

Turns out founder Kevin Harvey and his team had been quietly chipping away at something monumental. (And that’s no surprise because at this point Harvey’s on his nth rodeo, following in his late father, Les’, footsteps who was known as the ‘founding father’ of Parnell.) 

You see, while the bones of 269 are a market peppered with permanent vendors, the Marble Bar in the square for bevvies, an upstairs hire space for weddings and a soon-to-be-realised Latin bar, the essence is much greater. Everybody who’s ever started anything tends to claim they’ve created a community but the atmosphere at 269 is unmistakable. 

Somehow, it isn’t just inspired by Harvey’s years spent backpacking through Turkey, Iran, Afghanistan, Pakistan, India, and Nepal in the ‘80s. It is that gorgeous otherworldly, borderline jaw-dropping hospitality that normally you have to be in holiday mode to fully realise. But step into 269 and you’re there. It doesn’t matter how many looming deadlines you have, how overflowing your inbox is, when you’re there you’re there mind, body, soul. ‘Revitalised’ doesn’t begin to scratch the surface. 

But we digress. The food. Pull up a seat and let’s chat (and do, by the way—the vendors here are bristling with excitement at the prospect of sharing the stories behind their kai). You’ll feast up large at whichever kitchen you choose but, at a glance…

At Tambo you’ll met Regi Gallina who is as bubbly as his food is exquisite (very). His offering spans Brazilian tapas, share plates and sides. He’s turned the traditional Brazilian black bean stew of Feijoada into crispy croquette bites and he does a mean crispy casava chip. Don’t skip his comforting pão de queijo, a warm, stretchy, naturally gluten-free Brazilian cheese bread served with garlic butter and port wine jelly. 

Aula’s Kitchen is headed by Aula Abdo Saada along with her husband, Sam. This is the spot to hit for pita bread stuffed with crispy falafel, schnitzel or lamb and beef, and hummus plates four ways. Happily their Million Dollar Salad—a blend of parsley, nuts, raisins and cranberry—is yours for just 18 big ones. 

Armando Campana has created Mayu, a homage to Peruvian food in Aotearoa. Their corn bread with brown whipped butter, crispy shallots and an Algarrobina syrup (made from the coastal Peruvian Black Carob tree) is top of their menu for a reason—don’t skip it. Layered potato, ceviche, grilled prawns, Peruvian pork sandos, fresh salads and a soulful grilled grape with spices are just some of what’s also on offer here, too. 

If you’re craving a taco (birria or otherwise), head to Alfredo Romero’s Taco Amaiz. You’ll taste recipes from Sonora where Romero grew up in Northern Mexico. Known as a walking encyclopedia of Mexican cuisine, he has travelled over 4000 km through Mexico documenting the national fare. 

269 Parnell is open 7 days a week from 11am ‘til late with Latin American and European waterfront reminiscent markets every Saturday from 8am ‘til 1pm. Vendors include Anabelle’s Cheeses, Uchu, Salash, King Street Sauces, Basque, Paella Pan and more. And you can always snag a drink from The Marble Bar in the courtyard managed by the exceptionally talented Paula Cubillos (Peter Gordon at Homeland). Top tip: the bar stocks Brazilian Guaraná Antarctica soft drink which makes for a nifty little energy boost. 

Words: Alice Rich | Image credit: Wono Kim

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