Cāntīng

The Verdict

Dessert might seem like an unusual place to start a review—especially one focusing on Chinese cuisine—but then again, Cāntīng is far from your usual restaurant. Bought to us by renowned chef Nic Watt (the brains behind the Auckland-famous MASU, along with INCA and the soon-to-be-opened Shoku in Dubai) and perched in a premium waterfront location, this is the home of traditional Chinese dining... tipped on its head.

But for now, back to that dessert. Indeed, if you try only one dish here (does anyone actually do that?), make it the deep-fried ice cream, which you may be surprised to learn is a popular treat throughout China. Here, it comes in the form of an enormous ball of vanilla bean ice cream surrounded by a crispy, perfectly golden (and still warm) layer of batter, reminiscent of the kind you get from your local fish and chippy (meant here in only the most complimentary sense). Served atop a bed of silky, aged biju caramel sauce, this dish now officially sits at the top of our Last Supper list.

And while we could write a novel on the deliciousness of said dessert, that wouldn't be doing Cāntīng (meaning “restaurant”)—found inside the former Pōni spot on Level 1 of Commercial Bay—justice. The overall ethos here is traditional Chinese with a modern spin, which you'll experience seven days a week via yum cha, lunch, and dinner, along with exotic cocktails to wash it all down (we highly recommend the spicy lychee marg and peach bellini). Now might be a good time to mention that they also offer an exclusive 'whisky locker' service, whereby you can purchase a bottle of your fave juice and keep it tucked away for future visits inside its very own, very fabulous backlit locker. Again, not something you see at your everyday Chinese restaurant.

Cāntīng's menu is designed to share, headlined by a moreish selection of dim sum and starters including perfectly crunchy spring rolls and juicy handcrafted dumplings stuffed with fillings like spicy crayfish and scallops (served in a cute branded steamer, no less). This is complemented by a line-up of more substantial dishes from the wok, BBQ and beyond—we're big fans of the kung pao chicken which, true to its name, punches a spicy hit and goes down a treat alongside some crispy eggplant spiked with fish sauce, and tender wok-fried gai lun and pe-tsai cabbage. However rumours also abound about the deliciousness of the san choy bow/lettuce cups, Watt's famous black cod with char siu sauce and of course, this spot's take on one of the most iconic Chinese dishes of all time—BBQ duck pancakes.

The fit-out—from the team at Izzard Design of Bivacco, Movida, and Azabu fame—ties everything together in one beautiful, aesthetically pleasing package. Once again taking classic Chinese elements and giving them a considered, yet contemporary shake-up, you can expect pops of rich red, oak, yellow, and even some blue, along with cosy banquette seating, statement lights reminiscent of lanterns, and the pièce de résistance—a gigantic terracotta-tiled duck oven—set across a grand 120-seater space. This includes seating at the kitchen to watch the chefs in action and even a semi-private dining space, the Shuijing Room, should you and up to nine other guests want to inhale your meal in private. And all with expansive floor-to-ceiling views of the glistening Waitematā.

But don't just take our word for it. Head on down to Commercial Bay and experience this game-changing take on Chinese cuisine for yourself. Your palate (and certainly your view on ice cream) will never be the same again.

Words: Kathryn Steane | Image credit: Michael White

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