Hanoi Haven

The Verdict

Traditional Vietnamese cuisine has traversed the Pacific to find a new home on Hurstmere Road, where it's been given a contemporary (and potentially Auckland-best) makeover. This elevated take on what is undoubtedly some of the world's most flavoursome food can be found at Hanoi Haven—a chic new eatery that's replaced the now-unrecognisable Bird On A Wire spot, fronting Takapuna's Fortieth & Hurstmere laneway.

A double-take is all but mandatory as you enter the new space, which has been revamped with elegant rattan furniture, decorative lanterns, a plush green banquette, and oversized tropical-themed artwork (they don't call this a haven for nothing).

All to provide a backdrop for what should be the main course at any restaurant—the food. And when it comes to this, you can rest assured that Hanoi Haven has its priorities well and truly in order. Expect the bold, fresh and vibrant flavours synonymous with typical Vietnamese fare, only with a sprinkling of modernity. Case in point: the incredible eggplant chips, presented as beefy batter-covered fingers, splashed with a sophisticated ginger and soy sauce caramel (if you wanna know what heaven on earth looks like, it's a plate piled high with these).

This game-changing aubergine is just one of many shareable snacks on offer (the chargrilled tiger prawns slathered in chilli sate and burnt butter, and crispy fried spring rolls stuffed with pork and prawns are also well worth your time), rounded out by hot takes on Vietnamese street food, and other famous dishes from the motherland.

As is customary with this kind of fare, you can expect to get your hands a little dirty—the bun cha and bo la lot will make sure of that (at least, if you follow our lead they will). We like to ditch the chopsticks and enjoy these two dishes wrap-style, using the vermicelli as a vessel to hold the tender cuts of meat, leafy greens, chilli, and herbs; a bit like a burger or sandwich (don't knock it until you try it). Of course, it wouldn't be a visit to a Vietnamese restaurant without also road-testing the pho, which is every bit as steaming hot and aromatic as you could hope for.

Which brings us finally to the two 'd's': dessert, and drinks. Settle the score for the former with either a cream caramel flan, or coconut and mango sago. As for our favourite sip, we're pushing booze aside for once and rooting instead for one of the best coffees to have crossed our collective lips in recent memory. We're talking about this spot's pretty-as-a-picture take on Vietnamese iced coffee, topped with a gorgeous cloud of coconut cream aka pure, unadulterated (and heavily caffeinated) joy. Of course, if you want something stronger, there's a long list of other libations with your name on it (including, we might add, a Vietnamese espresso martini).

So next time you're craving Vietnamese, pack up your appetite and take a trip to Hanoi Haven. For one thing, it has the best damn eggplant chips this side of the Pacific.

Words: Kathryn Steane | Image credit: Wono Kim

---