Sagrado Cantina

I attempted my first ever mole poblano when I worked as a private chef years ago and, to this day, I'm still figuring out the balance but last week I finally tasted the mole my taste buds had been waiting for—from a colourful, vibrant cantina called Sagrado Cantina, tucked away in St. Kevin’s Arcade.

After working the Auckland night market circuit for some time, Chef Jorge and Andrea have gone brick-and-mortar with a cantina adorned with colourful papel picado (traditional Mexican decorative flags), vibrant tablecloths and intricate ornaments. 

Sagrado means ‘sacred’ and, to Jorge, the passing down of family culinary traditions and the act of preparing these dishes represents just that. The menu, while inspired by Jorge’s grandmother’s cooking, is led by Jorge’s mum (a.k.a. Mama Lety) who, along with Jorge’s dad (and all the cantina’s Mexican decor) have flown all the way to Aotearoa to help kickstart the new era of Sagrado. Mama Lety recalls the sazón (the ‘flavour’) that her mother-in-law had left with everyone who tried her food. Over time that passion was passed onto her, and now to her son Jorge.

The menu features a selection of big hits from Sagrado market days, house favourites like the crispy fried tortilla volcano or classic tacos packed with flavour. Think: Mexico City’s signature lamb birria—with a very generous bowl of consommé—tender brisket suadero, beef or chicken asada and pork belly carnitas. Not sure what to choose from? They’ve got a 'feed me' section which will help you skip the hangry indecision and get straight to the eating.

For a taste of their family dinners, you can’t miss the page “from mama’s sacred book,” complete with crispy tostadas, enchiladas swimming in a blanket of tangy tomatillo salsa, and mole poured over chicken thigh—or pick the best of both worlds and ask for an off-menu enchiladas de mole. You can thank me later. 

Sagrado’s mole is inspired by mole poblano—a dish dating back to the nuns in colonial-era Puebla. A clever combination of local and old world ingredients created this signature Mexican dish which is synonymous with Mexican cuisine to this day. Sweet and fruity chillies are tamed with just the right amount of savoury and spicy kick. A subtle sweetness from bitter dark chocolate rounds it off, transforming a sauce that seems so deceivingly simple at first glance, yet tastes of layer upon layer of complex flavour as you dig in. Their mole is made in small batches daily, and is left to age for a day to allow the myriad of flavours to develop and come together.

Looking back at their kitchen, the back shelf is lined with all the Mexican seasonings and dotted with all the essential dried chillies—árbol, guajillo, morita, ancho, mulato, and pasilla. It’s almost second nature, to know how much of what chilli to add and which one works best for what. As Jorge tells me, they all play a role in the dish. He brings the mulato chilli for me to smell and its smoky cherry-chocolate fragrance blows my mind.

He tells me that Mexican cooking is not super spicy—it’s more like the tingle in the back of your throat. With that, out comes a brownie for dessert—the same ingredients as their mole but now in cake form. I dig into the warm brownie and the tingling spices wash over my taste buds with an exciting new kick in every bite. The ice cream breaks up the richness, and while the dessert can easily be shared between 2 or 3, I could happily have one all to myself.  

We finish our meal with their house made horchata (which also comes in a strawberry edit) and today’s agua fresca: a thirst-quenching mango number loaded with fresh mint. 

There are so many more dishes Jorge is keen to feature and you’ll be seeing these come and go as weekly specials (expect other varieties of mole, seasonal produce dishes and, down the track, freshly pressed tortillas to order). Keep an eye on their socials for updates from Tāmaki’s slice of Mexico City.

Words: Vicki Young | Image credit: Michael White

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