Aambra

Aambra is the newest venture from owner Cristian Gorgees, spotlighting Levantine culture and cuisine in the heritage-listed Rose Bay Uniting Church. Left empty for more than a decade, the church has been converted into a 140-seat restaurant, blending the original building's features with a sense of contemporary elegance. 

“When we decided to open a Levantine restaurant three years ago, there was a large gap in the market", Cristian tells Urban List. "I felt like it was a cuisine that wasn't being tapped into in Sydney. As for the site itself, I love unique spaces, and this truly is one of those."

Located in the grounds overlooking Old South Head Road, the building is surrounded by olive trees, lounge chairs and a multi-level, wraparound deck—akin to a sprawling garden in Lebanon. 

The original stained glass windows have been retained, bathing the tables in colourful, dappled light. Italian marble lines the floor in tones of burgundy and peach, with custom art deco, brass and linen fixtures decorating the walls. But of all the features that shine through from the church's remaining architecture, the 10-metre high cathedral ceiling is certainly the most impressive. 

“The most surprising thing about the venue is the design. People have perceptions about how the interior of an old church will look and feel, but we've confounded those with the beautiful, airy space we've created", says Cristian.

An open-plan bar and kitchen run across the entire length of the venue, giving guests a clear view of the open flame that grills their dinner. In terms of the menu, Aambra focuses on traditional Levantine dishes and preparation: Cristians’ centuries-old family recipes from his Iraqi heritage join dishes from regions such as Lebanon, Jordan, Cyprus and Egypt.

“It's also a place focused on sharing and bringing people together over food", executive chef Gianluca Lonati (ex-Nour) tells us. He has more than 20 years' experience, working at restaurants throughout Italy, England and Australia.

Small plates are heavily featured: start with a freshly-shucked rock oysters with fermented onion and isot oil, a play on kibbeh nayeh (made with tuna rather than lamb), or a samke harra whiting sando with whipped tahini. For mains, the blue grouper masgouf is served whole with tamarind and tomato—it's a no-skip menu.

“The masgouf is special to me because it's a traditional Iraqi dish that my mum would make for my family and I every few weeks growing up", Cristian reminisces. 

The drinks list is just as enticing, cultivated by sommelier Sasa Savic—a list of more than 130 wines has been curated to pair well with each dish. Cocktails are not forgotten either—the arak elderflower spritz and jaffa margarita are best enjoyed in the sunny alfresco area. 

Aambra is open for dinner, Tuesday to Sunday—and for lunch from Thursdays onwards. 

Image credit: Aambra | Supplied