Bantry Bay Grocer

Behind Northern Beaches newcomer Bantry Bay Grocer is Grace Triglone, whose hospitality career has taken her through some of Sydney’s most characterful venues, including Effie’s, Caravin and Randy’s. It’s her first time running a kitchen and an opportunity to build a place around her own relaxed approach to eating, drinking and hospitality.

“The concept itself isn’t particularly revolutionary, we’ve seen versions of it over and over again,” Grace tells Urban List. “I think it’s more about the attitude you bring to it.”

Inspired by European alimentari and the neighbourhood mixed businesses once common across Australia, Bantry Bay Grocer brings a cafe, lunch spot, wine bar and grocer under one roof. The takeaway deli and grocery offering is still in the works, but Grace plans to stock sliced-to-order meats and cheeses alongside bread, eggs, milk, butter and pantry staples.

For now, it sits somewhere between a cafe and casual restaurant, or, as Grace puts it, a lunch bar with a strong wine list.

“There are already about 20 cafes within a 100-metre radius, so we didn’t need—or want—to open at the break of dawn just to compete with that,” Grace explains.

“Instead, it made more sense to carve out a different rhythm: somewhere you can grab a coffee in the morning, a glass of champagne for a celebration, or settle in later in the day for wine, beer and something to eat.”

Bantry Bay Grocer has taken over the former A Taste of Belgium site, which traded from the address for more than 15 years before its owner, Didier, retired to travel. Grace completed much of the renovation with her dad and former boss Sam, previously behind Aggy’s and Effie’s and now the owner of Boté.

The result is stripped-back and rustic, with Grace’s personal style coming through in the illustrated branding, lighting and furnishings. She wants the room to develop naturally rather than feel finished from day one.

“There are so many places that open wanting to be perfect, polished and beautifully organised from day one,” she says. “I’m much more interested in collecting things over time: a bit of clutter, a bit of randomness, and things I love that somehow work together.”

“For me, the experience comes from the relationship you build with the customer, rather than how much money you put into the fit-out.”

The menu centres on simple food made with quality produce. In the morning, the signature order is eggs with crème fraîche and caviar. At lunch, it’s the Boot sandwich, packed with prosciutto, stracciatella, basil, tapenade and heirloom tomato, alongside changing specials such as tortellini in brodo.

Italian-style sandwiches make up much of the offering, supported by antipasti and meat and cheese plates assembled from the deli fridge. The current selection includes prosciutto di Parma, porchetta, smoked ham, 18-month comté and an Australian raw-milk gouda-style cheese, served with fresh bread and house-made accompaniments.

Australian and European wines are poured by the glass and bottle, while the tap beer changes monthly but remains fixed at $5. The short cocktail list covers Negronis, Martinis and Aperol Spritzes—the latter of which can be turned into a spider on request.

Other details include $3 espressos after 3pm and house-made soft serve with extra virgin olive oil and salt, though Grace nominates the soft-serve sandwich as the one order not to miss. She’s currently doing most of the cooking, supported by a five-woman team across sandwiches, deli plates and service.

While the alimentari influence comes from Europe, Grace also drew on Australia’s old-school friendly grocers, the shops locals relied on for everything from childhood treats to a last-minute bottle of milk. Bantry Bay Grocer won’t sell lollies or cigarettes, but it is intended to serve the neighbourhood in much the same way.

“The philosophy is pretty simple: quality over quantity, simple dishes made special, and a few sweet reminders of childhood,” Grace says.

Bantry Bay Grocer is still taking shape, with more groceries, deli goods and character to come—but its easygoing approach is already clear.

Image credit: Bantry Bay Grocer | Instagram