Darband

After 20 years on the same strip in Auburn, Darband has entered a new chapter — reopening one street over with a larger dining room, a refreshed fit-out, and the next generation officially at the helm.

If you’ve ever dined here, you’ll know the greeting: “Befarmaeed dakhel.” Welcome inside. It’s a phrase that’s echoed through Darband since founder Morteza Hemmati opened the restaurant in 2005, building it into a cornerstone of Sydney’s Persian community.

Now, siblings Naseem and Hasan Hemmati are leading the next era of the family institution — Naseem overseeing brand and front-of-house, Hasan continuing his father’s legacy behind the grill.

“At its core, the restaurant remains the same,” Naseem tells Urban List. “When you go into business with your family, especially your dad who has been running the place for 20 years, it can be hard to convince them to let go of things that have worked well for so long. They’re old school, after all.”

The shift is about refining rather than rewriting Darband's place within the community. The new space offers more room to gather beneath arched thresholds, with walnut panelling, herringbone floors, brass detailing and ambient lighting creating a setting that feels considered without losing familiarity.

“We wanted to combine those traditional elements, the food the community has loved for decades, with a better atmosphere,” Naseem says. “The response from our customers has been really positive.”

The walls are lined with family photographs dating back to the 1970s, grounding the space in personal history. Thrifted objects add further layers — from flea market finds sourced in Iran to local hospitality relics collected around Sydney.

“It was important for us to decorate the space with items that have history and give new life to things you probably saw in your grandmother’s house growing up,” Naseem explains. “Everywhere you look, there’s something with a story.”

That sense of home extends to the food. Darband’s signature saffron rice — once described as the lightest and fluffiest around — remains central, alongside the kebab plates that built its reputation: Koobideh, Joojeh and slow-cooked stews like Gormeh Sabzi, a recipe Morteza learned over the phone from his mother when the restaurant first opened.

A newer addition worth ordering is the chicken wings, served with saffron rice and grilled tomato or as a skewer.

“This dish is a staple in our own household, something we’d cook for a Sunday afternoon BBQ, so we knew it had to be included,” Naseem says. “It’s not crispy or covered in hot sauce. Instead, it’s marinated in lemon juice, cooked over the grill, and extra tangy.”

For dessert, there’s Bastani Sonati (saffron ice cream topped with pistachios), a nostalgic finish that mirrors the menu’s broader intention.

One detail that often surprises newcomers? The raw onion served alongside dishes.

“It always raises an eyebrow,” Naseem laughs. “For newcomers, we usually have to brief them that it’s traditionally eaten alongside the meal. I always encourage people to give it a go.”

Behind the grill, Hasan works alongside long-time team members Payman Nashad and Qasam M., both with up to a decade at Darband. Morteza still steps in when needed. That continuity, Naseem says, is part of what keeps the restaurant personal.

Front-of-house is just as family-led, with Naseem, her mum and long-standing staff shaping the dining room’s tone.

“The best way to describe it is like having dinner at your grandmother’s house,” Naseem says. “The dishes taste familiar and remind you of home.”

Looking forward, the team hopes to host more community-focused events, collaborate with artists and introduce rotating specials — while continuing to share Darband’s 20-year story more widely.

“For a restaurant in Western Sydney, it’s been really refreshing to see more venues opening that you’d typically expect to find in the CBD,” Naseem says. “We want to be part of that shift.”

Darband is now open at its new Auburn address, carrying two decades of history into a space built for the next generation.

Image credit: Darband | Supplied