The Heritage Room

The Verdict:

Experience the old-world elegance of early 20th century Italy alongside Tuscan wines poured by one of Australia's top sommeliers at new Sydney wine bar The Heritage Room.

The family-run Esper Group have taken over a prime corner site at 25 Martin Place to create an intimate, 35-seat space inspired by the classic European enotecas of years gone by. Inside, a grand, curved rosa marble bar takes centre stage, framed by high-gloss Tasmanian Blackwood finishings, French wash walls and custom artworks.

Vintage banquette seating leads through to a small dining area and working wine cellar, while a purpose-built private dining room sits behind floor-to-ceiling wooden doors.

Head sommelier Giulia Ceruzzi (ex-LuMi, The International, Fratelli Paradiso) has curated a list of more than 200 bottles, with Tuscan varieties like vermentino ($18) and Chianti Classico ($26) leading the by-the-glass options, alongside high-end drops like Brunello di Montalcino.

"We want this list to take our guests somewhere else, whether that's to a long table under the Tuscan sun, a conversation that stretches longer than planned or simply the pleasure of sharing something good," Ceruzzi says.

The cocktail menu, by head of bars Alissa Gabriel, features modern plays on classics like the Lime Leaf Gimlet and Strawberry Boulevardier.

On the food side, Executive Chef Cami Feliciano's Josper-driven menu includes a 12-hour beef short rib schiacciata with Tuscan cheese fondue and a deconstructed wild boar lasagne with house-made Tuscan kale pasta.

"We've sourced as much produce as we can from Tuscany itself, from the prosciutto and cheeses to the olive oils," Feliciano says.

Four set menus are available in the private dining room, which caters for up to 25 people, with a focus on indulgent grills like Tuscan bistecca and dry-aged steaks.

The Heritage Room is open from midday until late, Tuesday to Saturday.

Image credit: Supplied