The Observer Hotel

Sydney's historic pubs are having something of a renaissance, and The Rocks is the latest neighbourhood to get in on the action. After three-and-a-half years of renovations, The Observer Hotel has reopened on George Street, trading its former identity for a distinctly British drinking experience, complete with cask ales, pub games and a serious commitment to the Sunday roast.

The revival comes courtesy of Mikey Enright and Julian Train of Barrelhouse Group, whose portfolio includes The Duke of Clarence, The Barber Shop and Hickson House Distilling Co. Given their track record, it's little surprise the pair have turned their attention to one of Sydney's oldest pub precincts, bringing plenty of English drinking traditions along for the ride.

The building itself has an interesting past, combining three historic sites: the former Waterman's Arms, Observer Tavern and an old garage. Designers Sara Mathers and Tania Einberg have worked with the existing architecture, introducing antiques sourced from the UK, a grand oak bar and richly furnished dining rooms. There's also a glass conservatory and sunny beer garden, while upstairs, three parlour rooms house a seven-foot snooker table, dartboards and chess sets.

One of the more interesting additions is the beer program. Two cask ales brewed exclusively for The Observer are served through traditional hand pumps imported from England, offering a drinking experience that's still relatively uncommon in Sydney. Guinness is another focus, served in custom glassware for anyone keen to test their pint-pouring credentials.

In the kitchen, head chef Sam Bull (ex-Icebergs) is putting his own spin on British pub staples. Think Hunter Valley scotch eggs, Berkshire pork sausage rolls, old-school prawn cocktails and gammon steaks with pineapple and whisky glaze. There's also a dry-aged steak program featuring a whisky-treated ribeye, alongside more unexpected dishes like juniper-brined spatchcock and a gin-spiked Eton mess.

The group's love of a proper roast hasn't gone anywhere, either. Building on the popularity of The Duke of Clarence's Sunday offering, The Observer serves traditional roasts throughout the week, with four options available on Sundays.

Open from 10am until late, seven days a week, The Observer is equally equipped for a long lunch, an afternoon at the dartboard or a few pints that turn into dinner. There's also a Victorian-style private dining room for events, with both bookings and walk-ins welcome.

Image credit: Kitti Gould | Supplied