Alpha Ouzeri’s Northern Greek Meze Feast Makes A Comeback In Brunswick

Snackers, we’re eating Mezeklikia-style. Fitzroy’s old Greek favourite Alpha Ouzeri has been reborn after closing almost 10 years ago. In its new home—a sunny former café space in Brunswick—co-owners Harry and Rosie Tsiukardanis have created a welcoming homage to Greek roots and decades of Melbourne hospitality.

“This is how we’d eat at north Greek ouzeris: all small things, sharing style,” says head chef Harry.

Alpha Ouzeri takes inspiration from mezeklikia menus of northern Greek bars, named for the “meze” drinking snacks rebetiko musicians would receive as payment. The tradition continues in Harry’s hometown of Kastoria and here in dishes like the Alpha Ouzeri Favourites platter of dips, pickles, cheeses, koulouri (ring-shaped sesame bread), pastourma and other snacks.

Australian-born Rosie met Harry in Greece, fell in love, and returned to Melbourne, opening the original Alpha Ouzeri in 2008. After closing in 2016, their next venture, ROSEM1LK café in Essendon, didn’t quite satisfy them. This business, Rosie says, is their “last hooray and last baby.”

“Serving people and cooking is important for Harry,” Rosie says. “His childhood friends are in Greece. All his connections are built around the restaurant.”

Image Credit: Alpha Ouzeri | Supplied

Harry brings three decades of experience—from Middle Eastern Mediterranean cuisine in Greece to Di Stasio, Epocha, and Babajan. Now, he cooks in his own style. You’ll find northern Greek specialties like tyrokafteri—a spicy feta and ricotta dip with chili—seafood youvetsi (“Greek paella”), and Turkish and Middle Eastern influences in baba ganoush or fried kefalotyri saganaki with date and pistachio.

Tender, slow-cooked lamb shoulder gets a contemporary Melbourne twist, compressed and served on a potato rosti. Generous, shareable desserts include Ekmek—a nutty, trifle-like treat of syrup-soaked kataifi layered with custard and mastic liqueur cream—and bougatsa Thessaloniki, orange semolina-filled filo with cinnamon, served with Greek coffee.

To complete the feast, enjoy Greek wines, beers, tsipouro, Loux soft drinks, Greek-inspired cocktails, and rakomelo—warm raki infused with cinnamon, cloves and honey—finishing with a shot of ouzo.

Brunswick’s space is snug and homey compared to the Fitzroy venue, but it carries the same soul, from old photos and news clippings to loyal guests sharing meals. Even the price of the goat dish is only $4.50 more than it was nearly 20 years ago.

“We want people to be able to come and afford a meal they deserve,” Rosie says.

Head to Alpha Ouzeri at 281 Victoria St, Brunswick, from Tuesdays to Sundays for authentic northern Greek mezeklikia and a warm, welcoming dining experience.