Bar Gabi Brings The Heat With Charcoal-Grilled Damper And Paperbark-Smoked Tequila Sunrises

Bar Gabi is one of Melbourne's hottest new openings. Named for Gabija, the Baltic spirit of fire, each bite and sip is touched with smoke, charcoal or flame. And that 70s vibe is oh-so-hot right now, with warm brown-and-timber decor, funky playlists and slick spins on retro drinks (clarified bloody mary, anyone?). 

Bar Gabi is Navi’s bright younger sister, from Chef Julian Hills and his partner Georgia Roberts, the team behind the lauded fine-diner and cocktail lounge. Another talented young duo will be leading day-to-day operations: Navi group beverage manager Miriam Wahlhütter and her partner, chef Paul Turner (recently of Death & Co.). 

The kitchen centres on an enormous Brazilian grill that does it all, from smoking roo sausages to grilling ox tongue skewers and rotisserie-roasting native lemongrass chicken. It’s still Hills’ menu, and there's a little taste of Navi in more ways than one. Trimmings from the legendary Navi duck are transformed into a rich XO sauce for Bar Gabi’s pai tee snack: a crispy shell filled with spiced duck liver cream. 

Navi’s signature ‘William’ sourdough becomes Bar Gabi’s sourdough ice cream sandwich.
“We're lucky enough to have a bit of William [the sourdough starter],” Turner says. “He forms the base of our damper. That's probably the best-selling thing.”

Made fresh daily, the charcoal-grilled damper of potato, dashi and spitfire flour is glazed with blackened finger lime and served with wattleseed miso emulsion. Hot tip: pair it with the grilled brie and pepperberry honey. Mind blowing.

Wahlhütter’s creative cocktails are bold, standing up to dishes with their own touches of fire, like a paperbark-smoked twist on a tequila sunrise. It makes for incredible pairings, such as the bourbon and pecan tart with the Joker, a whisky sour with wattleseed and macadamia liqueur, mandarin, juniper honey and toasted wattleseed dust. Martini-lovers, Wahlhütter’s spin uses bespoke Rothwell Distillery gin, bumping up the warmth with citrus and spice botanicals, eucalyptus-infused Maidenii vermouth and a touch of fino sherry.

Wahlhütter’s non-alcs have been flying, including her smoky passionfruit margarita and a Davidson plum spritz—a boozeless switch for their Andy spritz. Native cocktail flavours are matched by a local-skewed drinks list, with mostly Australian vino and Melbourne beers.

Bar Gabi is personal for Wahlhütter and Turner. Not only is Gabi also Wahlhütter’s grandmother's name, it's the first time the duo have worked together since meeting at Lover in Windsor. After the “crazy” opening week, Gabi is finding its rhythm. Friday, Saturday and Sunday catches a chilled-out lunch crowd, while nights are packed with bookings and curious locals.

“Five o'clock rolls around and it’s heaps of walk-ins who just want to have a drink at the bar and end up staying an hour and a half and eating half the menu, which is really lovely,” Wahlhütter says.

No tables free? Linger in the upstairs lounge or just take the best seat in the house: a four-person chef’s bar, offering a diner’s-eye view of the kitchen and a chat with Turner. 

Image credit: Kit Edwards.