Peruvian-born chef Alejandro Saravia (Farmer’s Daughters, Victoria, Barra, Morena Sydney) has switched out his Latin American fine diner with Wine House—a slick wine bar, bottle shop and private dining room in the heart of the CBD.
The first Morena in Sydney closed after a few years, having opened in 2011. The second iteration opened in the heart of Sydney early last year and is going gangbusters. Last September, on Little Collins Street, Morena 3.0 kicked off.
Saravia feels sad that “the two-level fine-dining concept didn’t work at that site”, as prohibitive running costs took their toll.
‘We are still very positive on how the [hospitality] industry is growing. It’s part of the learning curve as a restauranteur, as a business group. You learn from those experiences," he says.
“I don’t consider it a mistake. It put Latin American cuisine on a high level. Maybe we were too ambitious in that sense. And too confident [when switching to only a tasting menu earlier this year].”
With Wine house, Saravia expands his Gippsland-led offerings, and continues championing his farm-to-table ethos. He’s been sitting on a bottle shop licence since opening Farmer’s Daughters in 2021, so feels now is the time to use it.
“A lot of the wines we have access to are from small producers, that you don’t see in bottle shops," he says.
The wine list includes the textural and complex Lightfoot ‘Cameleon’ White Pinot Noir (Bairnsdale), the dark and savoury Bass Phillip Nebbiolo (Leongatha) and a sparkling NV Cannibal Creek Blanc de Noirs (Tynong North).
“Think of Wine House as the city’s cellar door to Gippsland,” sommelier Stephen Amman says.
Wine House is also where you can grab a $25 Thursday lunch special burger—made with Saravia’s secret blend of four Gippsland grass-fed beef cuts—or feast on a $25 Friday special Farmer’s Plate—“a nod to classic counter meals like minute steak and chicken parma.”
Saravia reveals he’s planning to resurrect Morena Melbourne (he’s already casing out venues), referencing the continued success of Morena Sydney. So, looks like Morena 4.0 will be a thing.
Saravia’s Latin American street food cantina and bar Barra, next door to Wine House, remains open. Wine House opens at 71 Little Collins Street, Melbourne CBD on October 15.
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