Dessous

THE VERDICT

Dessous. If you don’t speak French you won’t get the joke: it means under. And under Dessous is, under its stunning sister venue Hazel on Flinders Lane. But that’s the only thing it’s under.

The maximalist French salon chic downstairs sets the mood for the venue, with champagne, wine bottles and kitsch in every nook and cranny, with peeps of light from Flinders Lane above. You feel like you’ve found an actual hideaway in the CBD, a place so special no one else knows about it—but that’s definitely not the case, especially come happy hour.

But the food, oh the food. The current menu is a Thai-influenced, a nod to head chef Dan Sawansak’s heritage. Think Natty Wolfe on Masterchef, but without the spice.

For starters there are nibbly little dishes like potato rostis with fire-kissed tuna, making a clever twist on fish and chips, sufficiently spiced scallops with the zing of of tom yum consommé and the decadent spanner crab donut, a tasty morsel stuffed with sweet meat, a touch of sriracha and topped with roe. 

The humble roasted bone marrow has been freshened up with a sticky rice vessel for slathering and a Thai herb salad to cut through the richness, while the pork jowl skewer is the perfect snack and perfectly delicate atop a bed of papaya salad. Mains like a dry-aged duck with butternut pumpkin and dill with a spot of rice tie everything together pefectly.

Drinks-wise, creations like the One Night In Bangkok (a special, but ask for the rotating specials, you’re sure to be surprised) provide a decent kick, while a lengthy local and international wine list provides plenty of options for casual tipplers and oenophiles alike.

Dessous is part of The Mulberry Group who have a slew of venues under their wing, most recently (and notably) Molli and Little Molli, but also Hazel and Lilac Wine.

Book your table over here.

Images: Dessous | Tim Harris
Words: Navarone Farrell

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