Hunky Dory | South Yarra

The Verdict

Everyone’s got a favourite fish and chip shop, but we’re going to chuck another one into the mix: Hunky Dory in South Yarra.

In some ways Hunky Dory has become a victim of its own success—the brand has expanded rapidly over the last few years, opening dozens of restaurants around town. And this has led a few people to dismiss them as a corporate chain who wouldn’t know a good dim sim if they were sitting on it. Big mistake.

Have you ever actually eaten at Hunky Dory? Their chips can go toe-to-toe with the best in Melbourne any day. Fact. Fried in good-quality oil, crunchy on the outside, pillowy on the inside, salted just right. Not too blonde, not too brown—rogue, overcooked chips are hunted down and exterminated with gusto. The result is chip Nirvana—potato triple distilled to its carby essence.

Hunky Dory South Yarra just underwent a massive renovation (seriously, the local tradies were at a loss for weeks), and the new store is looking better than ever. Decked out in nautical blue, with aproned waiters whizzing back and forth, carrying plates of fresh seafood and salad. Swing by on your way to work in the morning and you’ll find the owner out front, drinking triple shot coffees and listening to Greek music. It’s that sort of place.

So what to order? The salt and pepper calamari is excellent, and the grilled fish is popular with the local fitness crowd. But personally, we’re loving the value in the Hunky Dory pack: fried flake, potato cake, dim sim, chips, lemon and tartare for $12? We are so there...

Image credit: Annika Kafcaloudis