St Martin’s

The Verdict

Curved pale wooden-panelled walls, a flecked sea green tiled floor and matching twin columns either side of the cake-laden service station greets you upon entry. The third endeavour from the team that transformed Bentleigh East’s Centre Road strip when they went in with Little Tommy Tucker and the hero’s behind Elsternwick’s Glovers Station, the St Martin’s name is announced in a bold new font designed specially by Work Art Life Studios. Pendant lights punctuate the tuck-pointed concrete block wall at the rear and hardwood tables and chairs dot the floor.

St Martin’s nimble seasonal menu marries simple flavours with smart restaurant techniques.Stock standard beans-on-toast gets a dramatic upgrade, with a roast tomato, chilli and fennel broth poured over corn puree-doused butter beans from a glass beaker. Poached eggs float in a fluffy cloud of mozzarella froth.

For a big belly busting breakfast, a braised beef rib teases off the bone to drift into a lick of chilli caramel. It’s served with creamy celeriac remoulade and two deliciously runny fried eggs.

Image credit: Teagan Glenane