Terror Twilight

The Verdict

So long, Bedford St. We had some good times. Collingwood’s old burger bar may be gone for good, but in its place is a new venue, revamped and rethought: Terror Twilight. It’s still owned by the same guys—local coffee roastery Wide Open Road—but that’s pretty much where the similarities end. Where Bedford St had mac n’ cheese pancakes and gnarly hunks of golden fried chicken, TT is all about the healthy stuff.

Chef Pia Hambour has built a simple breakfast menu...with with a few little surprises. Think pikelets with grilled plums, cherry & cardamom syrup, and coconut yogurt, or a roast chicken sandwich with pistachio, bacon and prune stuffing, drizzled in tangy lemon mayo. It’s clean, clever cooking that you’d usually find south of the Yarra, but Terror Twilight still feels like a northside café. Bedford St got a tzuj, and maybe an artful hanging plant or two, but there’s still a hint of Collingwood grunge lurking underneath.

Terror Twilight’s main event is DIY health bowls: a flavour-packed base of steamed broccoli, brown rice or quinoa, with custom toppings like turmeric cauliflower, grilled halloumi, grilled Tazzie salmon or Sichuan-marinated tofu. There’s the broth option too: a choice between hearty chicken, thyme and star anise, or the cold-busting shiitake and kombu. Both are sultry, warm and bloody good for you. The sort of food your Mum would approve of. Top it all off with a souped-up coffee menu (including ‘upgraded’ coffees with MCT oil and Chaga mushrooms) and you’ve got the makings of something pretty special.

We’ll miss the messy nights at Bedford St, sure, but Terror Twilight might have stumbled onto something even better: a clean morning. Man we’re getting old...

Image credit: Michelle Jarni