Upper Middle

THE VERDICT

When a neighbourhood eatery is backed by someone who’s been at the forefront of Melbourne’s favourite venues for decades, you know you’re in pretty good hands. Upper Middle is the first all-day eatery from Franck Sammut—for the uninitiated, he’s helped shape France-Soir, Bistro Thierry, Stokehouse, and The Botanical—and the venue carries the quiet confidence you’d expect from a formidable hospitality veteran.

The aim for Upper Middle? A room with personality, European touches, and “simple things done well”. 

Located at the Eastern Road precinct in South Melbourne, Upper Middle is made for daily life, not occasion dining. Swing by for a baguette and a St Ali coffee on your way to work, or settle in for a long lunch on the terrace. Head Chef Lakshay Kapoor (Bistro Thierry, trained at Le Cordon Bleu) loves elevating comfort foods with world-class techniques, and the menu reflects that. 

It centres on a baguette bar and pizza oven, both of which scream of deliciously European simplicity. The baguettes range from classic and comforting (Ham-Damme with comté and pickled beetroot) to a little more refined (house-cured salmon with dill cream and fennel salad). Highlights from the pizza oven include the potato, rosemary, and parmigiano Patata, the prosciutto with buffalo mozzarella, and the Daniella (nduja, salami, pickled chilli, jalapeño honey). 

The interiors draw inspiration from European bakeries but add a cheeky twist, with layered greens, soft timbers, warm whites, and walls covered with vintage French newspaper. It already feels lived-in, without being contrived. 

Words: Kiera Eardley
Imagery: Upper Middle | Supplied