Autumn’s the best time to explore our backyard—the roads are less busy, it’s just before the winter ski season and the scenery is hard to beat, with crisp autumn leaves at every turn. While Ruapehu is known as the go-to destination during winter months for keen skiers and snowboarders, the autumn months are just as good. Aside from the Tongariro Crossing, Ruapehu has a plethora of other hidden gems: day walks in the Tongariro National Park to suit any fitness level, including the newly reopened Te Ara Mangawhero walk and cycle shared track. For those into a bit of the wild outdoors and culinary adventures, head further in to Blue Duck Station in Retaruke. Check out the local food scene (and quite possibly the best scones) after your adventures big or small—and don’t leave Ruapehu without experiencing an outdoor hot tub soak underneath the stars.
So without further ado, here’s our go-to guide on where to eat, stay and play in Ruapehu.
Where to Eat in Ruapehu
Image credit: The Station Cafe Waimarino | Jack Woon
Head to the newly refurbished The Station Cafe to start your day right. Owners Lili and Sam (who I happened to know from Milk & Honey cafe over a decade ago in Pōneke) have taken over the space for over 7 weeks now, extending the original cafe site with loads of natural light and all the good vibes. They’re no strangers to the art of hospitality, with Lili on the machine and Sam on the pans out back. Most of their produce is straight from the garden, made fresh and baked in-house. Get their signature marjoram, lemon thyme and Parmesan potato cakes with add-ons like poached eggs and bacon (with all the hollandaise your breakfast dreams desire), marinated tomato and silverbeet, or smoked kahawai and pickles. If you’re more of a lunch person, they’ve got freshly made pappardelle with tender beef, bacon and mushroom to send you to carb heaven. Don’t leave without a L'affare coffee—and while you’re at it, one of their Parmesan scones too (plus an extra side of butter).
Image credit: Frank's Eatery | Jack Woon
For lunch, go where the locals go—to Frank’s Eatery. With the fire roaring, and gumboots lined up outside, it’s where you’ll find the sweetest Ohakune carrot soup and a loaded beef burger—complete with all the blue cheese, fried onion and pickle trimmings (ask for Frank’s Ultimate Burger, you won’t regret it).
Image credit: Johnny Nation's Chocolate Eclair Shop | Jack Woon
Hit up Johnny Nation’s world-famous-in-NZ chocolate eclair shop for an afternoon smoko bakery run. Massive eclairs are slathered in chocolate icing and filled with fresh cream. I spy other kiwi classics like a massive iced bun with thick pink icing and a warmer of pies (to balance out the sweet, of course). Dayna and Jessa (both ex-baking students of mine) who run the shop recommend the latest cheesecake offerings too. I can’t say no on my Ohakune Kiwi bakery rite of passage—I smash back an eclair (and cheesecake) and get a photo with the giant eclair on the wall to mark the occasion.
Image credit: The Chef's Table at Blue Duck Station | Jack Woon
Dine amongst the stars at The Chef's Table at Blue Duck Station for an unforgettable degustation experience. Only accessible via ATV, head up the hills where Chef Jack Cashmore and the team curate a 10+ course menu that changes depending on what’s picked from their gardens, and what’s available locally in the region and with the seasons. Expect fine-dining with thoughtful attention to flavour, textures and impeccable service to match.
Where to Stay in Ruapehu
Image credit: Powderhorn Chateau | Jack Woon
What’s a trip to Ruapehu without staying at the Powderhorn Chateau? The popular wooden lodge for all keen skiers and snowboarders during the snow season gives all the snowy cabin vibes, but without the chilly snap at this time of the year. With views looking out over the vibrant orange, red and yellow leaves along the banks of Mangawhero River, it’s a peaceful time of the year to be at the Powderhorn. Their restaurant and bar (The Powderkeg) has hearty pub grub and breakfast too, so you don’t have to wander far. Check out the indoor heated swimming pool, built inside a grotto with moody lighting, royal blue tiled bar stools in the water, and a drinks bell for all those margaritas pool-side.
Image credit: Blue Duck Station | Jack Woon
For a stay up in the mountains like no other, head to Blue Duck Station. Blue Duck Station owner Dan Steele has committed his life’s work to preserving the whio (blue duck) and the environment around it for future generations. Within the station is Chef Jack Cashmore's The Chefs Table Experience—which complete with luxury cabin stay, it’s one of the most memorable Aotearoa outdoors experiences I’ve ever had. Stay the night at the ‘top of the world,’ surrounded by rolling hills and the clouds for breath-taking views of the mountains.
Where to Play in Ruapehu
Image credit: Carrotland Ohakune | Jack Woon
If you didn’t get a snap by the Ohakune carrot in your childhood, it’s not too late now (you can even get a pic with the Ohakune swede, potato, parsnip and Brussels sprout too). Enter Carrotland, which has expanded to a number of other vegetables, also famously grown in Ohakune. Locals say the carrots in Ohakune taste better, and if you read up on the carrot history here, you’ll see a tribute to the Ohakune Chinese growers along the Heritage Pathway. Check out the other pathways, as well as an outdoor gym, confidence course (with double flying fox) and a mountain bike course. There’s an upcoming Treasure Island and Powderkeg pirate ship in the works as the next interactive kids’ playground addition to Carrotland—watch this space.
Image credit: Taranaki Falls | Jack Woon
With incredible walking tracks long and short (and equally stunning views), we’re truly spoilt for choice in Ruapehu. For those who are working up towards the Tongariro Crossing or only have half a day out, shorter walks like the 6km Taranaki Falls loop gives a great snapshot of the Ruapehu landscape. Start clockwise (from the first entrance), and make your way through native bush and beech forest (with easy walking tracks laid out) which lead to the show stopping 20m high falls—you can walk right up to the base of the waterfall. Loop back through tussock, volcanic soil and mānuka to the village, with the peaceful stillness post-forest bath.
Image credit: Te Ara Mangawhero | Jack Woon
With Phase 1 of Te Ara Mangawhero opening just this year, it’s caused quite the stir with local hikers and bikers—the 12.95km loop track is a shared walk and bike track which can be done as a whole loop or in parts. It’s an easy outdoor hike to soak in nature and check out some of the history in Ohakune. We took on the advice from locals and ventured on a part of the Forest Loop Walk—the perfect forest bath after a flat white from local coffee and merino outdoor wear spot, Opus Fresh HQ.
Image credit: Blue Duck Falls | Vicki Young
For those after walks and a bit more of the adrenalin buzz of the great outdoors, make tracks to Blue Duck Station. There’s a reason why it’s fondly referred to as the outdoor lovers’ playground—the station offers conservation trapping, bush walks, biking tracks, horse-trekking, guided hunting trips, kayaking, as well as jet boating down the Whanganui river (and spotting a few endemic whio along the way).
Image credit: Ohakune Hot Tubs | Jack Woon
Finish your day with an outdoor wood-fired hot tub soak at Ohakune Hot Tubs. Each hot tub is privately fenced, with a clear view of the night sky so you can watch the stars above. It's the ultimate way to unwind after a big day exploring Ruapehu.
Keen to explore more of the outdoors? Check out:
- Our picks on where to Eat, Play and Stay in Marlborough
- Everything you need to know about The Country Calendar famous Blue Duck Station
- Dine at the Top of the World at The Chef's Table at Blue Duck
Main Image Credit: Taranaki Falls | Jack Woon