I didn’t know what to expect when we drove into the hills and valleys of Blue Duck Station. But I could feel it was something special as soon as we hit the gravel road. As we drove up the dusty farm track, the last of the golden hour was just setting over the looming silhouette of the hills around us. Crisp bronze and copper tones bounced off the autumn leaves, and we could see the warm lights around Blue Duck Cafe up ahead.
Mel Rickards, the operations manager and her loyal four-legged companion Frank, greeted us as we pulled up. With a brief intro (and lots of pats for Frank), we headed to the Frontier Lodge for the night. We settled amongst the stars, a quiet and peaceful stillness as we barbecued steak outside. It felt like home, as we played board games by candlelight over dinner.
Image credit: Frontier Lodge at The Blue Duck Station | Jack Woon
Blue Duck Station is based in Retaruke—about 2km from Waimarino (previously known as the National Village Park), in the Ruapehu district. Up in the hills, it’s surrounded by regenerative native bush (something Dan Steele, Blue Duck Station owner and his team have been working hard to bring back) and between the Whanganui and Retaruke rivers. The station, named after whio (blue duck) is a species endemic to Aotearoa. Along with their grey-blue appearance, whio are pretty different to the usual quacking variety—Dan recalls hearing whistles and growls. Fast forward a couple of years later, Dan took a leap of faith and after working for his parents, he bought his own farm. Blue Duck Station was born—named after the whio he spotted years back and has since worked so hard to protect.
At Blue Duck Cafe large nasturtium leaves cascade over the gardens outside, and the citrus trees are heavy with lemon and grapefruit. Resident gardener Hannah is covering up the harvested pumpkin patch with sheep wool trimmings (nothing is wasted around here) and picks off a few snacks for us to taste—the crunchy baby radish from the greenhouse, the burst of juicy sea spinach, and spicy micro mizuna that looks like a little coral reef. We nibble on sweet pea flowers too, giving us a peek of what’s to come on the menu at the restaurant tonight.
Image credit: Blue Duck Station | Jack Woon
Our day starts with a Bush Safari led by Dan. There’s so much to do and see here. When he’s not planting wetlands to reduce flooding or going through the poplar trees (they help with soil conservation, off-setting carbon, as well as providing feed and timber), he’s working on fixing up old buildings that make up the history of the station. We pass by fluffy pet highland cattle, a peaceful Clydesdale horse and watch sheep shearing in action. We head up to spot a few whio from a distance and visit Aunty Rosemary, the resident botanist and keen green thumb. The produce she grows in her garden also goes to the cafe and restaurant, and she makes Blue Duck’s signature preserves.
We share sun-kissed finger limes with Aunty, plucked straight from the tree. It’s sweet and tangy at once, like nature’s sherbet. Dan tries his first finger lime too (“We learn something new every day eh?”). We meet the parents, Richard and Rachel Steele—who have the best view of the river from their homestead on the neighbouring property. We head down for a jetboat ride along the river, passing by a record number of whio in the water (to Dan’s delight and surprise). The river runs along a part of the Te Araroa Trail, one of Aotearoa’s big walks which draws in crowds through the summer months—as well as those who are keen to hit the hills for a bit of biking too.
Image credit: Blue Duck Station | Jack Woon
The Chef’s Table—fondly referred to as the restaurant at "the top of the world"—opened in 2021. With incredible views of the surrounding hills amongst the clouds, it is only accessible via ATV. On the way up we stop off for a kayak at the Blue Duck Waterfall. It’s breathtaking as you glide through crystal clear green-blue waters, surrounded by mossy rocky walls and a waterfall—all to ourselves. We jump back on the buggy, zooming past the sprawling mānuka bush and resident cow traffic—until we reach the restaurant at the very top.
Chefs Jack Cashmore, Ben McKenzie and Sommelier Clover Sykes greet us out front of The Chefs Table. Standing majestically on the top of the hill, with sleek and warm wooden exterior, the restaurant makes the most of the surrounding views and lush matching guest cabins—our accomodation for the night and named after the visible mountains—Ruapehu, Ngauruhoe and Taranaki.
Image credit: Bread + Butter | Jack Woon
The menu is trust the chef style with 10+ courses—utilising produce from the veg gardens we visited, as well as foraging by Chef Jack and a few things from Aunty Rosemary’s garden. It’s a snapshot of the changing landscape and season each day. Highlights include mushroom biscuits, mānuka-flamed wagyu, hot bread, a salad like no other, kabayaki-style eel tacos, an inventive cheese course and crispy lemon meringue kisses.
Read the full Chef's Table review
Image credit: The Chefs Table at The Blue Duck Station | Jack Woon
Before we set off the next morning, Chef Jack cooks us breakfast at the restaurant, complete with homemade English muffins, silky scrambled eggs and perfectly crisp bacon. We watch the clouds whip around the ever-changing landscape at our breakfast table. With a breakfast spread that will convert even the non-breakfast eaters, our table is covered with plates of delicious bits and pieces—crunchy house-made granola, yoghurt, local honey and Aunt Rosemary’s crab apple jelly on toast. We soak in one last glimpse of the breathtaking view before Jack changes from his chef whites and drops us off to the cafe in the ATV, back to where we began our Blue Duck Station journey.
Image credit: Blue Duck Station | Jack Woon
Blue Duck Station has a bit of something for everyone, no matter if you’re into the adventure of a guided hunt, a peaceful forest bath kayaking through their gorge, or a luxury getaway at Blue Duck Restaurant—complete with overnight stay and waking up to incredible views at the top of the mountains. From outdoor enthusiasts to culinary foodies, you can feel the values and ethos in conservation for the whio and environment running through it all. Coming together through Dan’s conversations around conservation—we all leave Blue Duck Station feeling refreshed, inspired and keen to come back again.
Want more? Check out:
- Weird And Wonderful Places To Stay In New Zealand
- The Most Romantic Stays Near Auckland
- New Zealand Hot Pools To Bliss Out At
Main image credit: Cabin at The Top of The World, Blue Duck Station | Jack Woon (@unkofilms)