The Nightcar

The Verdict

Otherworldly cocktails and noodle dishes come together at The Nightcar, Auckland’s newest hidden bar and restaurant.

The Nightcar is basically the answer to an Aucklander’s prayers: generous late-night opening hours, stackable portions, exquisite Chinese cuisine, a champagne trolley, and a wine and cocktail list as meticulously crafted as its sleek interior. Oh, and nestled away from plain sight in the heart of the city.  

Descending the dimly-lit stairs, you’ll note a space that’s equal parts chic, utilitarian, otherworldly and with gentle nods to train stations. And you’d be right. The Nightcar takes its name from the temple of pure indulgence in the fictional train—one looping around a frozen earth, the last of humanity on board—called Snowpiercer, featured in a dystopian film and Netflix series of the same name. 

It’s a lively spot indeed, with dining nooks perfect for every occasion. Groups are nestled in low booths—some fitted with exit slits, perfect for avoiding the awkward lap dance when you need to shuffle out —and others sealed with a night-sleeper-style curtain.

A sweeping, long bar welcomes walk-ins. A blend of Chinese, Caribbean and local easy-listening R&B swirls around. A playful blend of low lights, cocooning curved walls and mirrored surfaces add panache to the space—as does a dance-floor-like light fixture. It’s just what Snowpiercer’s Miss Audrey would want should she be a cocktail-loving JAFA. 

Wholesome—and delicious—points are scored through the menu’s focus on Northern Chinese Cuisine, a nod to owner Daren Zhou’s childhood memories.

The Nightcar’s take on the classic oyster and champagne fiasco is a must-try. Champagne is served trolley-service, wheeled to your table and shaken with Belvedere and house-made Kefir lime syrup (you’ll only find house-made syrups and infusions here). Oysters, Sheng Hao, get the royal treatment too, served with a chilli lemon-grass and brown sugar sauce that is worth scooping straight into your mouth. 

Decision paralysis be gone: each cocktail is named by their hero liquor, listed from most gentle to punchy (a welcome pattern in Nightcar’s menu—more on this later). Enjoy a creamy meets tart moment with Vodka, or the gentle yet perfumed Baiju with purple butterfly pea tea, or the smokey and sour Mescal (complete with sour beer, don’t ya know). 

The same goes for their wine list, which is equal parts extensive and unique across white, bubbles, orange and red. Chances are you’ll find the variety you fell in love with abroad: From Grüner Veltliner to Zinfandel to Vouvray. Even greater chances are that you won’t have seen anything like it in town—it’s all about showcasing the team’s favourite, lesser-known wines here. 

Onto the food and noodles are the star of the show. So much so, that you’re encouraged to have a bowl to yourself and leave the hot and cold plates to share, or jazz up your noodle bowl with. We promise they won’t be offended with creative mixes and matches. 

The thick Hong Qian Mian noodles (considered a dessert dish in China) deliver sweet-meets-savoury hits of sesame and sweet soy with chopped Szechuan pepper—but make no mistake, they’re a top dinner choice in The Nightcar’s world.

On the more savoury side, Ji Si Liang Mian highlights creamy sesame paste with cold noodles, shredded chook and black vinegar. Ramp up the savoury with the Zha Jiang Mian, lashed with a pork belly filled Chili Douban (a very delicious Sichuan broad bean mixture) or Gan Lao Mian, a heavenly dark oyster sauce, soy, bok boy and wood ear wonton egg noodle mix. 

Pro tip: noodles should be mixed within five minutes to make sure flavours hit just right. DIY, or ask politely for another round of dinnertime theatre.  

Bo Cai provides the sexiest take on vegetables: spinach is lathered in creamy sesame paste and topped with nuts and seriously good chilli oil. As for their garlic cucumber? Superbly balanced—perfect as a side or to load up cold noodles. A dazzling block of silken tofu is even more proof that vegetarians will not go home hungry here. 

Meat is a must (within reason, obvs, vegetarians get a pass) at The Nightcar. Ultra-lean cuts of 24-hour braised beef served cold is perhaps the most fun way of getting your iron intake. Li Li Ya, marinated duck in the lightest, crispiest ‘spring roll’ cups is a must—but be warned, they’ll leave you wanting more, so it’s best to order a double serve, just to be safe you know.

The lamb literally falls—sorry, sashays—off the bone in the Yang Pai, seared lightly with cumin and chilli in a gentle nod to Uyghur cuisine. And the classic BBQ pork? It gets a chic spin, thinly sliced with five-spice and an-oh-so-savoury hoisin in the Gui Fei Rou. 

Dessert, like the food, is listed from most to least sweet. Thank goodness they’re mostly single serve, because these intriguing finishers are the kind you can hoover up without even realising.

Herbal Jelly with taro Sago pearls is an almost palette-refreshing game of textures. As is the creamy mango sago pudding, with pops of pomelo in your mouth. Rice cakes get an ultra-crispy battering, sealed with a treacle-like brown sugar sauce. It’s a doughnut’s doughier, stickier and more sultry cousin.

Expect the unexpected at The Nightcar—your classy new drinking and dining den in the heart of the CBD. 

Image credit: Urban List | Wono Kim

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