Laying back in steamy waters, blissfully allowing your muscles to relax and feeling the stress of the day unwinding is, for most Aussies, a little treat we rarely indulge in. For the people of Beppu, a Japanese city in the Ōita Prefecture of the nation’s south, it’s every day.
They are regular visitors to onsens, public bathing houses that utilise the area’s volcanic waters, rich in minerals said to heal all kinds of ailments.
When you think of onsens, you probably think of a day spa, right? Many spas globally have adopted the onsen concept for self-care, including right here, like Japanese Bath House in Sydney’s Blue Mountains and the Mornington Peninsula’s Peninsula Hot Springs. These are great for some max relaxo, but the true onsen experience is unique—and can be kinda confronting if you’re not prepared for what’s to come.
Before booking your flights and diving in, here are some tips for respectful onsen bathing.
Image credit: CNN Travel | Website
Clothing Isn’t Just Optional, It’s Off-Limits
While you may find some Western onsen experiences that allow you to wear swimwear into the mineral waters, the majority of onsens in Beppu—and definitely any local onsens—won’t allow clothing in the water. That means swimwear, too. Yep, you will be naked with strangers.
Onsen facilities are usually separated by gender, but you will still find the experience a little alarming if you’re not someone who is comfortable stripping off around others. Basically, you enter the facility and are either provided with a towel and robe or must bring your own. From there, you’ll go into a space that has a changing area with either lockers or shelves to pop your clothing.
The most confronting part is probably when you’re buck-naked and walking down toward the pool. However, it is so common to bathe publicly in Beppu onsens that you will quickly realise no one is looking at your body. Once you get over the initial weirdness and enter the warm waters, you’ll quickly forget about the nudity part. In fact, it’s kinda freeing.
Onsens Run Hot
The first Beppu onsen we visited, Ekimae Koto, was quick to inform us that there were two pools on offer—hot and medium. The hot was HOT, around 48C. This isn’t your everyday spa soak. In fact, it’s not a good idea to lounge around in an onsen for too long without breaks. Most advise spending three to 10 minutes in the onsen, then rinsing off with cool water before taking another plunge if you want to.
If the water feels too hot, the cooler option is your friend. This onsen sits at around 44C. Still hot but more manageable for newbies. Whatever you do, don’t try to battle it out in a temperature your body isn’t comfortable with. Oh, and bring water. You will need to rehydrate during and after your session. You can also often buy milk at vendors outside onsens, or in the foyer. This is a traditional Japanese way to rehydrate. Another option? The best electrolyte drink in existence, Pocari Sweat.
Some Onsens Aren’t For Tourists
In Beppu, there are some onsen facilities that are exclusively for locals. In fact, we were informed by our guide that there are onsens specifically for a particular neighbourhood, with a key being given when you move into the area. This is because onsens are actually used by locals for bathing, not just relaxing. Many will visit daily with their bathing products like soap, using the onsen as a cleansing bath.
But while there will be some onsens you can’t visit, there are plenty that welcome tourists. Many really cater to onsen rookies, and our tip is to start with these bigger facilities when you’re onsen-hopping to adjust to onsen culture.
Then, get adventurous with the more locally-frequented, smaller onsens. We’ve included a list below, but there are so many in Beppu, you’ll likely stumble upon hole-in-the-wall onsens your entire trip.
Follow The Rules
The Japanese Society of Balneology, Climatology and Physical Medicine released this handy guide to safe onsen bathing. It’s a good starting point for respectful onsen bathing. Most importantly, don’t go into an onsen if you’re sick or have skin rashes or sores because you could infect others. But that’s 101, right?
It’s also a big no-no to just hop into the onsen. You must wash thoroughly before entering the hot spring waters. You’ll find taps and buckets near the pools for this, with stools to sit on. If you are given a small white towel, that is for this purpose. Don’t submerge it in the onsen pool—you can fold it and place it on the side, or fold it on your head to soak up sweat.
Now, tattoos. You may have heard that onsens traditionally do not allow people with tattoos to enter pools, as tattoos have historically been associated with the Yakuza, Japanese crime gangs. However, some onsens will allow tattoos these days, and small tattoos are usually no problem. It is best to check with the onsen prior to visiting regarding tattoos.
Finally, never sit on the edge of the onsen.That’s where people rest their heads. It’s considered very rude to sit on the edge—which is totally understandable since no one wants to rest their head where someone’s butt was just perched.
The Best Onsens In Beppu For First-Timers
Hyotan Onsen
Image credit: Hyotan Onsen | Website
Hyotan Onsen has existed since 1922 and is definitely more on the relaxation side of onsen culture. You’ll find everything here—sand bathing, steam rooms, foot baths and even a restaurant serving the Beppu speciality of Jigoku Mushi (food cooked in steam from the hot springs!). It’s definitely one to hit up first, since it caters predominantly to tourists and will adjust you easily to onsen life.
Ekimae Koto Onsen
This onsen is also known as Beppu Station Onsen because it’s right there when you exit Beppu Station! About 100 years old, it’s a little less fancy than some onsen facilities, but the historic design is a real drawcard if you love feeling like you’ve stepped back in time. There are two baths on offer, a hot one (really hot!) and a cooler temperature if you prefer.
Takegawara Onsen
Image credit: Takegawara Onsen | Website
This 130-year-old onsen is huge and a must-visit. Because it’s frequented often by tourists, we recommend it as a starting point on your onsen journey. Bring your own towel or rent one at the front desk, and then enter the onsen space and enjoy the baths. There is also sand bathing on offer for an extra cost, which is a cool experience—wearing clothing, you are covered in sand and encouraged to relax and experience its meditative effects.
Oka No Yu
This fascinating onsen is rare in that it alleges to treat “atomic bomb disease”. The onsen was visited by many Japanese affected by the bombings of Nagasaki and Hiroshima in 1945 and maintains a strong clientele today thanks to crystal clear waters. It’s a very traditional onsen, so we recommend visiting after getting used to the public bathing experience at some of the more tourist-friendly onsens first.
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