How To Nail A Salon-Worthy Blow Wave At Home, According To A Top Stylist
From backstage at couture shows in Paris to editorial shoots in New York, Sara Allsop has spent her career creating seriously good hair.
The award-winning stylist, creative director and mentor is one of New Zealand’s most respected names in the industry, with a resume spanning international fashion weeks, magazine covers and a trophy cabinet’s worth of accolades.
So, when it comes to nailing a salon-worthy blow wave at home, there are few people we'd trust more. To celebrate the launch of Garnier’s Fructis Keratin Sleek range, we tapped Allsop for her go-to tips, biggest blow-wave mistakes and the tricks she swears by for achieving that fresh-from-the-salon finish from your own bathroom.
Let's start with the basics. What's the biggest mistake people make when attempting an at-home blow wave?
The biggest mistake is not drying the hair completely. Even a small amount of moisture can compromise the longevity of a blow wave. Hair needs to be fully dry for the hydrogen bonds within the hair structure to reset properly. If moisture remains, the style will quickly drop and lose its shape, regardless of how much time you've spent creating it.
If someone wants salon-worthy results at home, what are the three non-negotiables they need in their kit?
My essentials are a lightweight blow-dry cream or styling product that provides control without weighing the hair down, a quality brush—whether that's a round brush for volume and movement or a cushion brush for a smoother finish—and a finishing serum to add shine, reduce frizz and create a polished result.
How important is preparation before you even pick up the hairdryer?
Preparation is everything. A great blow wave starts in the shower with a shampoo and conditioner suited to your hair type and needs. Healthy, well-maintained hair will always style better and hold a blow wave for longer. Following that with a heat protectant and the right styling product creates the perfect foundation for a professional-looking finish.
A lot of people struggle with volume. What's your go-to trick for creating that bouncy, fresh-from-the-salon finish?
For extra volume, I recommend applying a volumising spray before blow drying. Once the hair is dry, one of my favourite professional tricks is to use a straightening iron at the roots. By gently lifting and directing the roots away from the scalp while applying heat, you can create long-lasting volume exactly where it's needed, typically through the crown and sides of the head.
Can you share a professional technique that's surprisingly easy to recreate at home?
Using a straightening iron strategically at the roots is one of my favourite techniques. Most people think of a straightener as a smoothing tool, but it can also be used to create lift and support at the root area. It's simple to learn and creates volume that lasts much longer than teasing or backcombing.
When it comes to protecting hair from heat damage, what should people be doing differently?
One of the most important things is adjusting the temperature of your hot tools to suit your hair type. Fine hair requires significantly less heat than thick or coarse hair. Excessive heat can damage the cuticle layer, leading to dryness, dullness and breakage over time. A quality heat protectant is also essential to minimise damage and maintain healthy, shiny hair.
How should your blow-wave routine change depending on your hair type?
Every hair type requires a different approach. Fine hair benefits from lower heat settings and lightweight products to maintain body and prevent damage. Thick or coarse hair often requires more sectioning and stronger styling products to achieve a smooth finish. Curly hair can be more challenging to blow-wave at home and may require specialised brushes and techniques to control the curl pattern. For those prone to frizz, smoothing products and proper tension during blow drying are essential.
We're all trying to save time. What's your best shortcut for achieving a polished blow wave?
Rough-dry your hair until it's around 90% dry before introducing a brush. If you start styling while the hair is still saturated, you'll spend much longer drying it and may struggle to achieve a smooth finish. Removing most of the moisture first allows you to focus on shape and polish rather than simply drying the hair.
If you could give readers one golden rule for nailing the perfect at-home blow wave every time, what would it be?
Get to know your own hair and understand which products and tools work best for it. Your hairdresser can be an invaluable source of advice, and today's blow dryers come with a range of innovative attachments designed to create different finishes. Investing in the right tools and learning how your hair responds to them can make blow-drying at home significantly easier.
What's one blow-wave myth you wish people would stop believing?
The biggest myth is that more heat equals better results. In reality, excessive heat often causes damage and can make the hair harder to style over time. Technique, product choice and proper preparation are far more important than simply turning your tools up to the highest setting.
What's the most underrated hair tip right now?
Scalp health. People often focus entirely on the hair itself, but healthy hair starts with a healthy scalp. Using products suited to your scalp's needs and maintaining regular salon visits can have a huge impact on the quality, shine and manageability of your hair.
What's your favourite hack for reviving a blow wave on day two or three?
It depends on the condition of the scalp. If you're producing excess oil, it can be difficult to fully revive a blow wave, although a quality dry shampoo can help absorb oil and refresh the roots. If oil isn't an issue, simply reworking the top sections with a brush and a hot tool can bring the style back to life and restore volume and shape.
Which celebrity or trending hair look are clients bringing into the salon most often right now?
Celebrity inspiration is always changing, but right now we're seeing a lot of requests for expensive-looking, natural colour inspired by people like Margot Robbie. Soft, lived-in blondes and glossy, healthy-looking hair remain highly sought after. We're also seeing strong demand for modern bobs with soft, textured edges rather than blunt, rigid lines. To recreate these looks at home, focus on maintaining healthy hair, creating natural movement through your styling and investing in products that enhance shine and condition.
Whether you're a seasoned blow-wave pro or someone who's still figuring out which brush does what, Allsop's advice proves that great hair starts long before the styling begins. The good news? You don't need a backstage pass to Fashion Week to put her tips into practice.
And here to make it that little bit easier is Garnier’s new Fructis Keratin Sleek range designed to deliver smooth, shiny, anti-frizz results at home—without the eye-watering price tag of a keratin treatment.
The four-piece lineup includes a shampoo, conditioner, mask and a hero Heat Activated Serum, all powered by a Keratin and Argan Oil Smoothing Complex to leave hair feeling softer, smoother and shinier for up to five washes. The real standout, though, is the serum. Using patented Alpha Silane technology, it creates a semi-permanent anti-frizz shield that helps lock in sleekness and high shine wash after wash. Happy hair drying divas.
Editor’s note: This article is sponsored by Garnier and proudly endorsed by The Urban List. To find out more about who we work with and why, read our editorial policy here.
Image credit: Supplied