Just below the streets of South Melbourne, lies a little den of grandeur, lush food and sharp drinks. Castlerose, the latest venture from hospitality mogul Glen Bagnara, bleeds with a certain elegance, heavily inspired by Winston Churchill’s infamous yet covert subterranean parties.
“Castlerose is opulent, dark and brooding, with a distinct 20th Century feel that evokes feelings and emotions of times gone by,” says Bagnara. Also heading Hemingway’s Wine Room, Bar Bianco, and the upstairs counterpart of Clementine, Bagnara’s love for European-centered dining experiences isn’t hard to see.
The 4pm opening time leans towards after-work aperitifs and late-night tête-à-têtes. The menu, composed by Head Chef David Yuan is all about seasonality and sharing, with a flair for presentation. Duck rillettes are served to the table encased and revealed in tins, and plated with fig jam, cornichons and slices of baguette. ‘Cigars’ of confit duck are displayed in a cigar box and served with a water chestnut aioli and olive dust ‘ash’.
For something a bit more substantial, you can order either a half or whole roast chicken, seasoned with black garlic, lemon and gravy, or a Ratatouille tarte tatin for a vegetarian option.
Classic English fare comes in the form of a Wagyu Rump steak alongside Yorkshire pudding, and for something sweet, the offering of an ‘Eton Mess’ with marinated strawberries, strawberry coulis, and crushed meringue should satisfy any cravings. The night wouldn’t be complete without a vintage cheese trolley circling the room, which will have up to 10 varieties of cheese, from local to European classics.
Speaking of European classics, the drinks list is heavily inspired by the best of the 20th century, with plenty of Champagne, German, French and Italian wines. Heady Burgundy and Pinot Noirs aren’t forgotten, but the cocktail menu is the cherry on top, with six bespoke house cocktails being shaken and stirred alongside the classics.
The subterranean wine bar is found down a spiral staircase, seating 40 people. Rounded leather booths and barstools pair well with the dark timber furnishings, the dimly lit bar area, and Italian terrazzo. “There will be a strong focus on tradition that transports you to a time when local institutions were enduring and experience was key to a great night out,” states Bagnara. “No bottle of Barolo, side of lobster or bump of caviar is out of bounds as we can also offer bespoke experiences.”
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Image credit: supplied