The Albion Hotel

THE VERDICT

The Albion Hotel has returned to its roots after a few different stints, the space formerly known as Perry’s, a private events venue, and Punter’s Palace in the 90s, a particularly lively pub. Taking on the original name that it wore for the first 120 years of its life, The Albion is reinstating its taproom atmosphere, having been bought by the owners of Bodrigging Brewing Co., Pete Walsh and Anthony Daniel, alongside Jon Costello and Greg Scott. 

First opening in 1847, The Albion has been fully renovated and refurnished, although it’s completely recognisable as an improved version of one of its previous iterations. The exterior has a traditional 19th-century facade, and they’ve worked hard to keep it that way. “It’s hard to find buildings with such character, you just get that feel and history straight away,” says Walsh. “Everything from the height of the ceilings to the fittings and the doors, it’s just got instant character.”

The green-tiled U-shaped bar has been brought to the front, leaving very few seats without a vantage point. Beers are poured frothily from taps, primarily brews from Bodgriggy itself. Speaking of, their pours are done exclusively by the schooner—no pots or pints. “We thought it was genuinely a better vessel,” chuckles Walsh. “We’ve always fancied schooners and we wanted to add little touches that would contribute to the pub feel of it.” 

Chef Johnny Dominguez, formerly of Vue de Monde and Heston, has brought his own Latin twist to classic pub food. Walsh says, “We spoke to him about the concept of being able to transform elements of his cuisine and make it into pub fare. Fundamentally, the foundations of the dishes that he does are pub classics to a certain extent.” 

Expect Oysters Aquachile, dressed with radish, cucumber, red onion and crispy jalapeno, and a tender 300g grilled scotch fillet, served with coriander buttered carrots and chimichurri. The housemade chorizo comes straight from the Dominguez family recipe book, and the cheese-stuffed jalapeno taco is a solid vegetarian option. And, those with a sweet tooth would be remiss not to opt for the churro ice cream sandwich. 

Image credit: supplied

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