The birthplace of the nation, the winterless north, the spot every man and his dog escapes to during the summer—Northland goes by many names, all of them well deserved. As a seasoned visitor myself, with my ex-husband's family having long held their own personal slice of paradise in the Bay of Islands (actually the first bach to be built in Waipiro Bay), I do have some familiarity with the area; however there's so much I DIDN'T know about until a recent trip away with my bestie. From mouthwatering bakeries to charming bistros—saunas and cold plunges to foiling on lakes—and state-of-the-art eco cabins to luxury yacht charters, I discovered a whole new way to eat, play and stay in Northland, and I LOVED IT.
So here they are—the best places to eat, play and stay in Northland.
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Where To Eat In Northland
All You Knead
8 Vine Street, Whangārei
Image credit: All You Knead | Kathryn Steane
There's very little I wouldn't do for a good pastry (pain au chocolat in particular). I'd even travel the two-or-so hours from Auckland to All You Knead, which is serving up a formidable selection of said treats from its cosy bakery in Whangārei—and that's exactly what myself and my bestie did, to kickstart our trip. Don't be fooled by the unassuming exterior—the queue of hungry locals that's probably snaking out the door when you arrive should tell you 'all you knead' to know (in fact, business is doing so well that the baking has been moved offsite to a larger kitchen, despite this spot being just two years young).
Run by German expat Mirco Seifert, there's a clear European influence at play here (made immediately obvious by the super-sized pretzels hanging in the window). There's also a noteable emphasis on sourdough, which you can enjoy in no less than nine varieties, by the loaf or wrapped around juicy sandwiches stuffed with deli meats, cheese, and salads, wrapped in parchment paper secured with a sandwich pick (just the sort of little details this gal loves). And of course, what I really came here for—the pastries.
Circular croissants dipped in chocolate and adorned with fresh berries and nuts, and chocolate-covered croissants pumped full of a lush, crème pâtissière-like filling—these are just some of the beautiful treats waiting for you in the cabinet. The latter I found especially delicious because it tasted identical to my favourite childhood dessert, Vienetta (IYKYK). Any bakery that can elicit happy memories like these from its customers, is a special spot indeed.
The Duke Of Marlborough Hotel
35 The Strand, Russell, Bay of Islands
Image credit: The Duke Of Marlborough Hotel | Kathryn Steane
I'm a food writer—of course I'm going to recommend that you visit the first spot in New Zealand to hold a liquor licence (that would be the infamous Duke of Marlborough Hotel). Standing proud on the shore at Russell, there's little to suggest that this magnificent two-storeyed venue, first built in 1827, was instrumental in the town becoming known as 'the hellhole of the Pacific.' Once a magnet for drunkeness and other undesirable behaviours that start with d, I'm told it's been burnt to the ground multiple times and 'probably' housed a brothel. Fun.
Today, all I see is a flawless white facade featuring two sweeping balconies, housing a private dining room on one side (being set up for a wedding, no less), and the dining room of my dreams on the other (think pastel pink walls, covered from floor-to-ceiling with the most deliciousy eclectic selection of art, floral-upholstered chairs, and a grand old fireplace). Some might like to dine or even stay the night here (my ex-husband and I did the former for our honeymoon many years ago, and the food was outstanding)—but as my friend and I were on a bit of a time restraint, a glass of prosecco on the promenade had to do.
Image credit: The Duke Of Marlborough Hotel | Kathryn Steane
This is actually where the highlight of the entire trip happened, and it wasn't even on the itinerary—I saw my first shark (well, outside of Kelly Tarlton's that is). Even the gentle pull of bubbles couldn't be blamed for what was very clearly a triangular dorsal fin, cruising back and forth at the end of Russell Wharf (the ultimate dinner-and-a-show moment, sans the dinner). Sharing a once-in-a-lifetime encounter like this with complete strangers, also enjoying the Duke's fruits ('is it a bronzie? Or maybe a hammerhead? Apparently they're really common around here'), certainly felt pretty spesh, and not at all hellhole-like.
Kai Mata
93 Kerikeri Road, Kerikeri
Image credit: Kai Mata | Instagram
I love good old-fashioned hospitality, especially the kind that involves cocktails magically appearing in my hand, and glasses of wine being poured without asking. Such was the case at Kai Mata, which we visited for dinner on the second evening of our trip. And whilst said trip was very generously gifted to us by the powers-that-be, I have no doubt that the team here would extend this same kind of warm service to each and every person that walks through the doors of this charming restaurant.
Now when I say team, I really mean Roslyn and her parnter Christian, who run the front-of-house and kitchen here respectively. These guys are a shining example of what it means to be owner-operators and have propelled this spot, nestled along the main strip on Kerikeri, into a league of its own since opening just over a year ago. Think of it like a cosy wine bar that wouldn't be amiss in Auckland, crossed with a sort of cute European bistro complete with cobbled courtyard, fairylights, and fountain.
The menu here showcases modern Kiwi cuisine, made with locally sourced ingredients and a whole lotta finesse. Graze over mushroom parfait and housemade foccacia with caramelised onion dip for starters, snack on oysters or raw fish with blood orange, then fill up on 31-day-aged sirloin and the most increds gnocchi I've ever eaten, period, with a few cheeky bevvies to settle the score (this spot is lauded for its stunning cocktails, including those of the non-alcoholic variety). On a sidenote, so hearty were the mains that I experienced another first—the need not to order dessert. However if I'd been feeling up for it, the coconut and mandarin panna cotta would've been top of my list, followed closely by the sticky date pudding with vegan ice cream.
All of this makes me think that when it comes to dining out, Northland sure knows what they're doing. They could maybe even show some Aucklanders a thing or two (but shhh, you didn't hear it from me).
The Picnic Box Bay Of Islands
Paihia Wharf, 69 Marsden Road, Paihia
Image credit: The Picnic Box Bay Of Islands | Kathryn Steane
If you like brown paper packages tied up with strings, you're gonna love The Picnic Box. Filled with only the best and boujeest chef-made treats—with a dash of charming packaging thrown into the mix—dare I say Maria would've had a proper heart attack if one of these bad boys ever found its way into The Sound of Music.
Available in three options (Picnic, Platter, and BBQ—we had the former), these beautiful boxes are a no-brainer for those wanting to enjoy a meal off-grid. Break your way through the string with it's handwritten label to reveal a smorgasbord of gourmet goodies, topped with a manuka sprig (how very Northland). I'm not gonna lie, the first thing I laid eyes on inside our picnic box was a chonky-looking brownie, and this was also the first thing I ate. The consensus? One of the best brownies of my life (and I've eaten A LOT of brownies). Rounding out the sweet selection was a pecan, cashew and coconut slice, along with dried strawberries, mandarin and kiwifruit.
Which brings me to the savouries: miniature loaves of freshly baked bread (ciabatta and multigrain) both wrapped in string, and a perfect vessel for scooping up the morieshly smooth whipped avo dip, beautifully sweet caramelised red onion chutney, and other snackable delights on display. Tiny glass jars open to reveal olives and feta marinated in capers and garlic, while NZ charcuterie, grapes, and two types of Mahoe cheese (which I pile with abandon on top of the two kinds of crackers, also provided) all make appearances, too. If this sounds like a lot of food, it is—but you can bet my friend and I ate it all.
Where To Play In Northland
The Space
16 Cowshed Lane, Te Kamo, Whangārei
Image credit: The Space | Kathryn Steane
So historically I'm not a sauna or cold plunge kinda girlie (and by that, I mean I've never tried either). However I may be inclined to re-think my stance, following a visit to The Space. This peaceful escape in the Whangārei countryside offers a great introduction to the idea of contrast therapy (whereby you alternate time in a sauna and cold plunge pool) thanks to its chill, Shire-like setting and helpful guidance from owner and host, Arno Pohl.
After being talked through the basics—10-15 minutes in the sauna, up to three minutes in the pool, and repeat—you'll be instructed to shower and then enter the cute, traditional hot stone sauna (again giving LOTR vibes) which affords peaceful views across a grove of trees (plus Ando's sister's dog zipping excitedly up and down the lawn, if you're lucky. She's such a fixture, she even features in the brand's logo). The temp in this bad boy is pushed all the way up to 80 degrees celsius and that means HOT, but it's just the thing for relieving aches and pains, and sweating out all those toxins (in my case, caffeine and red wine).
Next up is the cold plunge, which you'll do in a pool filled with icy cold water at the very back of the grove, and plunge my friend did (sorry Andrea!) before making a swift exit. I myself managed to last a little longer but it was certainly a challenge and no easier the second—and what I deemed the final—time. This intensive hot/cold therapy, which Arno tells us is particularly favoured by athletes, is known to have incredible health benefits including reducing muscle pain and boosting circulation, and I must say, we both slept like babies that night.
In addition to this powerful therapy, The Space also offers massages, workshops, and yoga classes (in fact, they're working on building an all-weather yoga platform out the back as we speak). After chewing Arno's ear off about this, his formal qualification as a marine engineer (which explains his converted shipping container office) and more, we leave feeling nothing but relaxed—which I believe is precisely the point.
Silver Wave Yacht Charters
Paihia Wharf, 69 Marsden Road, Paihia
Image credit: Silver Wave Yacht Charters | Kathryn Steane
There's been many occasions where my friends and I have jokingly referred to ourselves as the Kardashians—this was the first time we actually felt like one. How could we not, when within minutes of being ushered onboard our very own private catamaran, a limoncello spritz finds its way into each of hands and a perfectly executed fruit platter appears out of thin air. By this point, we've already firmly parked ourselves up on the spacious, papp-approved seating area at the bow (a position we rarely left, bar to eat our incredible lunch with the captain—more on that in a mo). We were also given permission to hi-jack the playlist, so Hozier and Pearl Jam it was.
This is exactly the kind of top-tier service you can expect onboard Silver Wave Yacht Charters, which despite having been on the scene for just two years, has already made a name for itself as THE premium yacht charter in the Bay of Islands. Owned and operated by the charming Scott Farrand, a born-and-bred BOI man, this is truly a once-in-a-lifetime experience (unless, of course, you're an actual Kardashian).
Their MO is half-day, full-day and multi-day charters, catering for groups of up to 20 or 8 overnight; with a private chef to keep you fed and watered (aka the mysterious force behind that fruit platter). If I ever have another hen's party, I'll be giving Scotty a call. For today, however, we settled for the half-day cruise and as such, were offered the choice of stopping off for a closer look at some of the islands, or sitting back and soaking up the surroundings of the country's birthplace from aboard—we chose the latter.
Over four hours, we were gently ferried around the Bays' most iconic locations, with some fascinating commentary from Scott (including intel only a local could know). From double lagoons, rich island homes, and bird sanctuaries to the location of Captain Cook's OG anchor drop and the site of the country's oldest known human remains, thought to date back to around 1200—this was a fascinating lesson in all things Northland. We also got our very own nature doco moment with a little blue penguin sighting, though we're told dolphins are also a regular occurrence and if you're especially lucky, whales.
Image credit: Silver Wave Yacht Charters | Kathryn Steane
Another of the many drawcards for this cruise is its luxurious food offering. You'll be treated to only the finest fare prepared by expert chefs—including an eye fillet on potato dauphinoise with red wine and thyme glaze that would rival that found in any top restaurant (I don't say this lightly). There's also an equally incredible crème brulee up for grabs, which passed the crack test with flying colours (so much so, it may have sent a few pieces of dessert *actually* flying). Captain Scott took a break from his duties to join us, and so ensued many stories about his upbringing, training, and the business itself. We learned, amongst other things, that he had his heart so set on Serenity (the boat we're on) that he sailed her all the way back from Greece, that his brother races for the Italian Sail GP team (those must be some proud parents), and that his wife, Alyssa, owns the Aligned Movement Pilates & Yoga studio back in Kerikeri.
Once the four hours was up and we pulled into our mooring at Paihia, we could no longer keep up the pretence that we were members of the world's most famous family. However it was nice to pretend, if only for (half) a day.
Foiling Around
Paihia Beach, Paihia
Image credit: Foiling Around | Kathryn Steane
Let me start by apologising to anyone that was present at Lake Manuwai on the morning of May 18, where you would have been subjected to an unplanned comedic performance by yours truly as I attempted to foil my way around said lake, with very little success but a whole lotta laughs.
Of course, not everyone will have such unfortunate beginner's luck when they ride the locally designed Manta5 hydrofoil e-bike for the first time. Likened to a cross between cycling and flying, it's actually a fascinating sport and one I imagine is probably quite easy, once you've got the hang of it. Case in point: our instructor (and Foilin' Around owner) Yorick Exshaw, who speeds across the lake with all the grace and poise of a swan.
The art is in submerging the bike, mounting it, then activating the pedals before simultaneously leaning forward and firing up the motor—which when done correctly, will cause you to take flight. I did have a few moments (albeit short-lived) where I made it up and out of the water, and my friend even moreso. I imagine with another lesson, we might've been defying gravity, proper.
You'll be kitted out with all you need to enjoy the lesson (wetsuit, booties and the like) and you couldn't ask for a better and more patient instructor than Yorick. He typically runs the business from Paihia Wharf, where I can imagine kids, teenagers, and adventurous adults alike lining up to give this impressive, little-known sport a go. I may not be a foiling success story just yet, but I'm sure I'd be one of very few who aren't. Perhaps I'll give it another go, and re-write the narrative.
Hundertwasser Art Centre With Wairau Māori Art Gallery
81 Dent Street, Town Basin, Whangārei
Image credit: Hundertwasser Art Centre With Wairau Māori Art Gallery | Kathryn Steane
Prior to this trip, the only thing I knew about Friedensreich Hundertwasser—the Austrian artist who came to New Zealand during the '70s, before making the Bay of Islands his permanent home—was his NZ-famous toilets (you know, the ones in Kawakawa with the plants growing on top). However a tour of the art centre built in his honour, which he actually designed prior to his death in 2000, soon set me straight: not only was he an artist and an architect, but an ecological activist and all-round visionary (a sort of old-school Greta Thunberg, jokes centre director, Joost de Bruin).
There's no missing this unique building, which sits on the edge of the Whangārei Town Basin and features the irregular edges, bold colours and plants-in-places-you-wouldn't-expect that are synonymous with Hundertwasser's work. It's hard not to draw an instant comparison to Spanish artist, Gaudi.
However the most remarkable feature of this building is the Afforested Roof, a kind of rooftop utopia with a luscious garden grown on just six inches of dirt, featuring 360-degree views of the city and a grand, gold-leaf covered cupola (another Hundertwassser hallmark). Hundertwasser believed in living in harmony with nature (“We are guests of nature, and must behave”) and maintained that anything we take from it, we must give back—a building's footprint can be erased by planting trees on the roof, for example, and that's exactly what you see here.
Image credit: Hundertwasser Art Centre With Wairau Māori Art Gallery | Kathryn Steane
Once you've finished fawning over the exterior, you'll be treated to a comprehensive selection of Hundertwassser's artwork, including the painting he was working on at the time of his death, plus architectural models and even his very own compostable toilet. Furthermore, there's a smaller gallery downstairs, dedicated to showcasing Māori artists and creatives—the first of its kind in New Zealand.
Once you've filled your cup with art, fill a real cup with coffee (or maybe a cheeky vino) and a bite to eat at the beautiful onsite cafe, Aqua Cafe-Restaurant, also designed in the Hundertwasser style. Owner Steve is an absolute gem of a human being and will make sure you're taken care of with your chosen refreshements, as you drink up the visually stunning fit-out from your cosy booth.
Finally, don't forget to grab a little something from the gift shop on the way out—I recommend a couple of postcards, for your very own slice of Hundertwasser at home (and, I might add, a permanent reminder of what he stood for).
Where To Stay In Northland
Mākoha PurePod
500 Waimate North Road , Kerikeri
Image credit: Mākoha PurePod | Kathryn Steane
There's no universe where Kathryn is ever okay with being woken during the night. At least I thought that was the case, until I stayed at Mākoha PurePod—where I was indeed woken during the night, but not by children, or pets, or insufferable neighbours, but by the sound of our national icon, the Kiwi, gently calling into the dark somewhere not far from my bed. One couldn't possibly get mad at what turned out to be yet another once-in-lifetime moment on this trip.
Kiwi-song is just one of the many privileges you'll experience at this stunning off-grid eco cabin (one of 16 around the country), which is seamlessly positioned amongst an endless expanse of protected Northland bush. As such, you'll need to make a short yet adventurous trek from your car to get there (with backpack luggage only), however once you arrive it becomes evident the huffing and puffing was worth it. Because from this tranquil glass-walled oasis, you'll see only lush bush, and hear only native birdsong and the gentle flow of the Waipapa stream in the distance (hinting at the existence of the private swimming hole nearby). If Eden exists, surely this is it.
Our own arrival was swiftly followed by the uncorking of a bottle of bubbles paired with a curated selection of cheeses, charcuterie and other picky bits as part of PurePod's food hamper option, which we enjoyed on the deck in the dying light of day. This was complemented a little while later by a good old-fashioned BBQ (brownie points to us for cooking our first-ever BBQ, even after a couple of drinks!) and a decadent feijoa dessert, also part of said hamper. For our nightcap we drank in the stars, through the telescope provided.
Image credit: Mākoha PurePod | Kathryn Steane
Autum chills were quickly banished by a steaming hot shower overlooking that insane forest view (no-one's gonna see you out here except the Kiwis, so don't bother pulling the curtain), in conjunction with the double-glazed glass and powerful heating system (turn it up high and risk waking ip in the morning full-sweat). Then it was time to retire to the gloriously comfy king-size bed, dressed in crisp linen and Royal Doulton throw pillows (I know right?), to recharge for the following day's activities.
Ever care has been taken to protect the surrounding environment, from the solar panels on the roof, right on down to the intentional use of Ecostore-only cleaning and body products. However it seems they've also thought about your wellbeing, too. There's no wi-fi, which might seem a little jarring at first but is in fact a genius move, as it forces you to take a long, hard look at the unforgettable natural setting you find yourself in. Doomscrolling literally has no place here and that, Urban List whanau, is the ultimate form of peace.
Main image credit: Silver Wave Yacht Charters | Instagram