How I Holiday: Kurdish Kebabs And Escargot Pistachio Croissants In Paris With Ines English

Welcome to How I Holiday, a series of travel stories and recommendations shared by friends of Urban List from Aotearoa and Australia.

We cover all sorts of people and places for How I Holiday, but the city of love is by far the most popular destination. Every traveller's itinerary looks totally different, and Paris is far more than its ultra bougie or rough-around-the-edges stereotypes (in fact, it’s a bit of both). Here, Aussie actress Ines English takes us to a host of delicious hospo joints—think Kurdish kebabs in an old-timey shop, the best roast chicken and chips you can imagine and a relaxed wine bar with a rotating line-up of visiting chefs. 

Catch Ines alongside a host of Aussie actors in Ghosts Australia, which premieres Sunday, 2 November at 8.30pm on 10 and Paramount+.

Why is Paris special to you?

Whenever I get off the Eurostar in Paris, every voice in my head screams “I love Paris.” “I’m moving to Paris!” The buildings, the food, the history, the people spilling out of bars and bistros, it's like an adult playground. Almost every street is bursting with life and has something to explore. Every time I go back—and I was just there last week—I find so much more to the city that I didn't experience the last time I was there. 

What's the food scene like in Paris? Where do you always eat?

It’s one of the best in the world. Much better than London (sue me) where I lived for two years. For classic bistros, Le Bistro Paul Bert and Le bon George are favourites and so is I’Ami Louis for the best roast chicken and chips you can imagine. For something more modern, I love Early June in the 10th on Canal Saint Martin. They have different chefs taking over the kitchen every few weeks. I also love Le Dauphin, Clamato and Vivant Deux. You have to go to Le Baron Rouge to eat delicious natural wine and charcuterie while standing over a barrel. Ferdi for some people watching and mac and cheese. Chex Jeanette for afternoon espresso and late night drinks.

Where's the best spot to visit for cheap eats?

For sandwiches, Chez Aline, for falafel, L’as du falafel. For authentic Kurdish kebabs in the coolest old-timey tiled shop, it’s Urfa Durum. If you’ve been traveling Europe for a while, and need a good Asian food fix, Ngoc Xuyen Saigon is the best Vietnamese.

What are some of the best bakeries in Paris? Where should travellers grab a croissant?

Cafe de la Poste in the 3rd. There are also some great vintage shops around there. Or go crazy at one of the best bakeries in Paris, Au Pain et Dees Idees. They have an escargot pistachio croissant. 

Where do you always stay in Paris? Which boutique hotels are your faves?

I usually get Airbnbs in Paris because they’re so much more affordable. And, staying in a three-hundred-year-old Parisian apartment where you have to lug your luggage up five flights of beautiful, original timber stairs is all part of the experience. 

In your opinion, what's something that will surprise first-time visitors about Paris? 

It’s not this super chic place that you see in the movies. I mean, there are incredibly chic parts of Paris—but there is also an incredible counter culture movement and it is very down to earth.