The High Country means something different to every Victorian. Maybe it’s fond memories camping at Sheepyard Flat over Christmas as a kid, or skiing at Hotham when the powder is heaving.
Any way you slice it, the state’s north-eastern quarter is home to a veritable treasure-trove of activities. Fancy a bushwalk? Head up Buffalo. If you're more aquatically inclined, get the boat out at Bonnie Doon (yes, it really happens) and waterski. Or if you're after something a bit more Instagrammable, take a hot air balloon ride over the canola fields, or indulge at the top regional restaurants, pub kitchens, wineries, breweries and cafes on offer.
We were lucky enough to spend 76-hours in the High Country courtesy of our mates at Mazda and their awesome hybrid CX-60, to sus out the perfect travel guide and three-day itinerary for your next country getaway.
DAY ONE:
Melbourne to Mansfield and the King Valley:
Treat yourself, at least that’s how we felt on the first day of our little sojourn.
Kicking off the (long) weekend with a scenic drive, some natural and biodynamic wine, a farmstay complete with cows and farmer, and a rustic pub dinner, this is what country getaways are supposed to look like. Taking the road less travelled north-east out of Melbourne we cruise through the Yarra Valley, giving us an amuse bouche for the things to come. PS: Our Yarra Valley itinerary is over here. The three-hour drive (including the requisite coffee stops) was made extra comfortable with the Mazda CX-60 sunroof open to take in all that fresh country air.
DELATITE WINERY
390 Pollards Road, Mansfield
Image: Delatite Winery | Supplied
Our first stop is a picnic at Delatite Winery. Here, we’re taken through the wine-making process and sipped a stack of the state’s top tier natural and biodynamic wines. Specialising in whites but with a solid line-up of reds, Delatite’s pet nat is a must-take-home, likewise the mineral-driven pinot gris and riesling. After that we take a stroll to a shady spot under the gums where we get some fresh air and take in the rolling hills and vines that make up the winery. Grab their wines here.
After filling our bellies and hearts we head out of Delatite to the north-east another hour and take in the snow gums as we pass through part of the Victorian Alps on your way through to Bluestone Ridge in the King Valley. A solid sports mode in the CX-60, which relies on the petrol engine rather than the hybrid, punches through those twisty roads with ease.
BLUESTONE RIDGE
356 Honeys Lane, Whitfield
Image: Bluestone Ridge | Navarone Farrell
Farmer Marty Schoner left the life of a property developer and tradie in Melbourne to head up the High Country and take over his parent’s farm, which he in turn has turned into a fully fledged cattle farm with stunning mountain view cabins.
If you’re keen for an insight into how the farm works Marty can whip you up and down the bluestone ridge (the property’s namesake) and point out local landmarks and introduce you to his angus cattle, as well as his pet goats, sheep and alpacas.
And before you ask, yes, the critters do stop for selfies.
In the home paddock he’s set up the two cabins and a communal area overlooking Mount Buffalo, Feathertop and Hotham where you can enjoy all the perks of farm life but without those early morning wake-ups (unless you’re like us and were up hot air ballooning, but more on that later).
The communal building was formerly a camping hut used by his parents, but it’s had a little TLC since then and is now complete with a huge fireplace, bunk beds, a stack of games and a pour-your-own keg with King Valley Brewing’s best gear.
The cabins though, you can tell Marty used to do this for a living. Cleverly compact but aesthetic, there’s a skylight for stargazing, huge windows overlooking the mountain sunrises and first-class furnishings. Best of all though? His fresh baked loaf of bread he leaves in there for you for breakfast *chef’s kiss*, not to mention the complimentary prosecco.
Heads up, this is a working farm. You’ll hear the cattle in the night, likewise some of the soothing agricultural sounds you might not get in the city, and that’s the way we like it: authentic. Check out Bluestone Ridge on Instagram or book here.
MOUNTAIN VIEW HOTEL
4 King Valley Road, Whitfield
Image: Mountain View Hotel | Capture By Karen
What’s that old ad? Something about a hard-earned thirst… we’ll, whatever it is, we’ve earned ourselves a drink. Just down the road from Bluestone Ridge the 140-year-old Mountain View Hotel is just the spot for it.
The kitchen is pumping out gastropub food that’s way better than your local, but with a rustic touch that gives the dishes a homely feeling. Owned by the PIzzini family (yep, the ones who make that delightful prosecco you’re used to supping) the sprawling red brick watering hole is packed to the brim with locals chowing down on the beef cheek, curry and roast chook are matched by a lengthy local wine list.
And if you’re a history buff, Ned Kelly used to hang out and carry on here, but we’ll leave those tales to the locals.
DAY TWO:
The King Valley to Rutherglen
It’s an early start and a big day, but we’re well prepared for it after a big kip at Bluestone Ridge. Day two is a treat for you and your Instagram Stories with a hot air balloon ride, more food and wine than you can poke a stick at and a luxurious lakeside stay.
GOLDRUSH BALLOONING
Image: Goldrush Ballooning | Navarone Farrell
If you were looking for an excuse to finally tick hot air ballooning off the bucket list, this is it.
The High Country boasts a massive number of clear flying days, meaning that epic adventure isn’t going to get pushed back, and best of all there are even seasonal events to soar over, like when the canola fields are in bloom, or vintage when the valley’s grape vines are fruiting.
We launched from the Moyhu Rec Reserve, a short drive from Marty’s farm. The crew at Goldrush Ballooning, led by Paul Gibbs (a former World Bronze Medalist for ballooning) takes us through the process, which is all a lot less terrifying than we’ve been led to believe. Before we know it the balloons are inflated, we’re in the basket and in the air, with barely an indication we’ve left terra firma.
Soon we’re soaring over some of the best prosecco and pinot grigio grapes the state has to offer, cows are mooing to escape the shadow of the balloon as we pass overhead and the sun peaks out behind the alps. To say that it’s a jaw-dropping experience undersells it. When you go, take the option to have some bubbles and breakfast on board as you take in the sights and the fresh air and zig zag your way across the valley.
Typical flights last for about an hour and can take you around 12km from your launch site, which is around the static wind speed at elevation in the valley. Prepare yourself for the landing, that’s the fun part. Book your experience here.
RUTHERGLEN
Image: Rutherglen | Darren Stones
After fuelling up at Marty’s overnight–yep, you can plug the CX-60 PHEV into most power outlets–we jump into the Mazda and make for Rutherglen, one of Victoria’s most well-preserved and stunning gold rush towns.
The journey takes around an hour but we opt for a cheeky stop in El Dorado to check out McEvoy Tavern, Victoria’s smallest pub. It’s not far on to Rutherglen then, where we’re met by the town’s tongue-in-cheek sign at the main roundabout. It reads Sydney has a harbour, but Rutherglen has great port, which the region was formerly known for. Slowly, producers have moved out of the fortified wine game and into regular wine production and it shows. Basically the whole town is geared towards its major export these days, which isn’t gold, but grapes.
THE VICTORIA HOTEL
90-94 Main Street, Rutherglen
Image: The Victoria Hotel | Georgie James
If you fancy yourself a bit of an oenophile or just a casual tippler, there’s going to be something here for you and you’ll find it at The Victoria Hotel. The former hotel has been given a massive glow-up, sporting soaring cathedral ceilings, huge open glass windows and a beer garden worth a proper Sunday sesh.
And the food? Strap yourself in. The Vic as it's affectionately known by locals was awarded the best regional pub restaurant in 2024 and with former Stokehouse chef Brendan Anderson at the helm, it’s easy to see why. Anderson was lured away by the promise of more mountain biking and less commuting and has put in place a mouthwatering menu spanning your usual pub crowd pleasers to to venison tartare, bistro-style fire-roasted veggies with an Australian twist and a hefty selection of big proteins with a focus on cooking over fire and charcoal.
The menu even has suggested drink pairings, making it that smidge easier to indulge in something local that will be right on the money with your meal. Book a table, or even a stay right here.
HARRY’S ON MOODEMERE
12 Moodemere Road, Rutherglen
Image: Harry's On Moodemere | Supplied
Just a few minutes down the road is Harry’s At Moodemere, one of the larger Rutherglen wineries. Harry, one of the youngest of the Moodemere brood (and a builder by trade–you’ll notice a bit of a theme here) has used his considerable skills to knock up a series of villas backing on to the family winery’s namesake, Lake Moodemere. Tiled and ornate doors open to vaulted ceilings and expansive living spaces with a cook-in kitchen. The moody colour scheme featuring whites, deep greens and blacks matches perfectly with the surrounding bush and gives a feeling of complete escape and luxury. Not to mention the bathroom which wouldn’t look out of place on Selling Sunset. Enjoy a glass of the estate’s finest in the tub or select from their special releases organised in a wine fridge for your sipping pleasure. Book your villa here.
GRACE. BAR + EATERY
84 Main Street, Rutherglen
Image: Grace. Bar + Eatery | Supplied
What’s a regional town without its drawcard restaurant? Birregurra has Brae, Dunkeld has the Royal Mail and Rutherglen has grace. bar + eatery. This pocket-sized kinda fine diner kinda Euro-leaning bistro is the biz, changing up the menu every six weeks to fit with what’s in season. The cocktail list is heavy on the Australian spirits and you can get a twist on an espresso martini the Mac Daddy, with vanilla vodka and macadamia liqueur perfectly explains the direction. The wine list is as long as your leg and features a who’s who of local gear that will have you pondering for a while; we recommend anything funky and fresh from Scion. But the food menu, that’s what you came here for right. We indulged in a very green and spring themed parisienne gnocchi, pea purée, snow peas, zucchini, truffle pecorino and almond picada with a series of snacks like the jamon and patatas fritas, confit duck croquettes, spanner crab choux bombs and washed it all down with a chocolate mousse with a beetroot macaron and candied beetroot. Rezzies this way.
DAY 3
Rutherglen to Melbourne via Benalla
There’s a distinct feeling of ‘the party’s over’ on day three, and that we’ll soon be home ready to unload our treasure trove of bottles of wine, dirty laundry and get back to the humdrummery of city life, but don’t be sad it’s over, be happy it happened, there’s plenty on on the way home.
LITTLE G.
84 Main Street, Rutherglen
So we returned to the scene of the crime for breakfast, and who can blame us. Taking full advantage of the stunning set-up, Little G. operates as a coffee and pastry window and is perfect for a little snack on the go. Load up on a magic and a pastel de nata or a croissant and hit the main drag in Rutherglen, fuel up, it’s wine time.
SCION
74 Slaughterhouse Road, Rutherglen
Image: Scion Winery | Visit Victoria
We’re all a sucker for natty wine, right? Well, if you’re on the hunt for some trophy bottles to take home, your first stop should be Scion. A short walk from town or only a few minutes’ drive, owner and resident oenophile Rowly Milhinch, will give you a taste of their modern spin on traditional drops. Make sure you taste the ‘After Dark’ – a fortified Durif that also makes for a delish negroni. Scion's wines are available here.
JAMES & CO.
136 Main Street, Rutherglen
Image: James & Co. | Supplied
Sangiovese. That’s what James & Co. sling. Bang on the main street of Rutherglen, you can’t miss the inviting open windows and comfy couches scattered about for hooking into some of the region’s finest. Vintner Ricky James will wax poetic about his wines and treat you to a full explanation of the versatility of the fruit, from light and refreshing, fun sparkling numbers to rich and spicy reds in a more traditional iteration. He’ll even whip out a European import to compare how the High Country’s cool climate fruit compares to its warmer weather counterpart—a must for any wino. If you’re there on a Friday, take advantage of their local’s night and grab a pizza, otherwise build your own cheese board from a variety of tasty bits and bobs from their fridge. Check them out here.
BENALLA
Image: Supplied | Visit Victoria
The Mazda is still juiced up from its overnight refuelling at Harry’s thanks to their EV friendly parking and we jump in, ready to hit the Hume and blast back to Melbourne. At four-ish hours back to the capital it’s a mean feat for one sitting so we opt for a quick coffee and a stretch in Benalla to take in the town’s street art, laneway shopping and great bakery scene. Hot tips, Zeus Coffee Co. for your hot brew, Hyde’s Bakery for a pie and Picadilly Laneway for a souvenir.
And that’s it. That’s a solid long weekend in Victoria’s High Country. We arrived home exhausted but fulfilled having made the absolute most of the trip. If you’re after more Local Escapes inspo, we’ve got a whole stack.
Our High Country trip was planned by the legends at Tourism North-East who you *need* to follow on Instagram for all your weekend away inspo, and Urban List Melbourne’s wheels, the 2024 Mazda CX-60 Plug-In Hybrid Electric Vehicle (PHEV) was provided by the crew at Mazda and made for comfy cruising. For more on the vehicle, Zoom Zoom over here.