If you’re seeking a sugary treat with a decent dollop of nostalgia, eateries across Melbourne are serving classic desserts set to send you hurtling back to yesteryear.
Recent studies suggest we’re pining for times gone by—pursuing the comfort and escape of simpler times through the flavourful confections we grew up with, or perhaps, have only heard about. So why not find sentimental solace in a perfect pavlova or sensational sticky date pudding? Or perhaps a fairy floss fix will do it?
Here Are Some ‘Time Machine’ Sweet Spots To Get Your Tastebuds Going
Pavlova
Saros Bar & Dining, 41 Homer Street, Moonee Ponds
Over the last five years, Moonee Ponds locals have perched at the impressive marble bar at New York-vibe Saros Bar and Dining, sipping creative cocktails. And while the menu is largely modern European, chef Sushil Jungrana has added a pavlova, perfected over 25 years, as a sweet surprise.
The trick to a crispy shell and soft centre is free-range eggs at just the right temperature and good quality sugar, he reveals. He changes it up with seasonal fruit toppings like fresh mango, blueberries, passionfruit or strawberries.
Apple Strudel
Hofbräuhaus, 18-28 Market Lane, Melbourne
After more than 50 years, Hofbräuhaus, described as a little piece of Bavaria in the heart of Melbourne, has reached iconic status. It’s currently planning a massive Oktoberfest, but it’s also where you’ll find an ultimate retro dessert moment—the legendary Apfelstrudel.
The timeless classic is served warm with spiced Austrian rum (their “secret” ingredient), creamy vanilla bean ice cream and a currant purée.
Fairy Floss
Son In Law, ELLA, 211 La Trobe Street, Melbourne CBD
Image Credit: Son In Law | Supplied
Spun sugar aka fairy floss doesn’t typically come with a face, but Son in Law—nestled in the CBD and this year marking 10 years—is having fun with the old-school treat that got its name way back in 1904.
“There are no stickers or paper or plastic decorations, just creative playfulness,” they say, with diners able to choose their favourite animated characters plonked onto fluffy bao or whimsical fairy floss.
Choc Chip Cookie
Grain Store, 517 Flinders Lane, Melbourne CBD
Image Credit: Grain Store | Supplied
An absolute monster cookie is literally made just for you—coming out warm from the kitchen, dolloped in vanilla ice cream and home-made chocolate sauce. Grain Store in the CBD (known for its sublime brunches thanks to head chef Ingo Meissner) makes giant cookies to order, served on a hot plate—gooey in the centre and super generous with the choc-chips.
Co-owner Melanie Stolpe says even after 13 years they wouldn’t dare change the recipe, or take it off the menu—it's something that brings up childhood memories. The 10-minute wait for the cookie to bake is well worth it.
Hot Jam Donuts
Riverland Bar, Federation Wharf Vaults 1-9, Melbourne CBD
Image Credit: Riverland Bar | Supplied
No need for a trip to Queen Victoria Market when a hankering for hot jam donuts hits. Riverland Bar on the banks of the Yarra under Federation Square is serving a three-pack in a bag, replicating the nostalgic feel of a fun fair.
“We put them on the menu as they are great to share. A small bite when you just need a little something extra". Terrifically classic, the donuts are filled with strawberry jam, deep-fried then rolled in sugar. Lots of sticky thumbs up apparently from young and old.
Chocolate Mousse
Studio Amaro, 168 Chapel Street, Windsor
Image Credit: Studio Amaro | Supplied
Studio Amaro’s head chef Daniel Migliaccio serves his modern twist on chocolate mousse in a vintage Italian metal dessert bowl as a nod to tradition. “It’s a play on old-school mousse. It’s made with gianduja (chocolate stretched with hazelnut butter—a traditional Northern Italian ingredient), Nutella and hazelnut paste.”
The recipe also calls for whipped eggs, cream, sugar and bitter chocolate, combined with toasted hazelnuts, Montenegro Amaro-infused caramel and a light whipped mascarpone. A dusting of cocoa powder finishes the decadent dessert.
Banana Split
Lexy, 377 Flinders Lane, Melbourne CBD
Image Credit: Lexy | Supplied
It’s a banana split but not as we know it. New Asian fusion hotspot Lexy (the brainchild of owner and chef Ken Leung—revered for re-imagining Asian cuisine) has a cool spin on the classic—presented as a Crème Brûlée Espuma.
“This dish comes from the idea of banana fritters you see in many Asian restaurants and a classic banana split," Leung says.
"It starts with a caramelised banana base, covered with a light crème brûlée espuma, topped with macadamia crumble for texture and finished with Josper-roasted banana ice-cream, which gives it a smoky depth.”
It hasn’t taken long for the traditional dessert, re-interpreted through a playful, refined lens, to become a favourite. Also hard to ignore is the Key Lime Pie cocktail made with rum, Biscoff, lime, horchata and meringue.
Sticky Date Pudding
The Swan, 425 Church Street, Richmond
Image Credit: The Swan | Website
The Swan in Richmond watering hole, established in 1890, celebrates pub classics through weekly parma and steak nights (that start at midday!) and even a late-night, post-9 pm, happy hour on a Friday.
After bangers and mash, a fried chicken burger or fish and chips, you can squeeze in another classic—sticky date pudding done right. Naturally, the supremely moist comfort food comes drenched in butterscotch sauce.
Tiramisu
Luci, 472 Bourke Street, Melbourne CBD
Tiramisu can’t be ignored on a retro dessert list. Luci at Hilton Melbourne creates a modern take—inspired by a recollection of the lockdown days, when neighbours would drop off a coffee and cream concoction with a zesty, homegrown citrus kick.
Chef de Cuisine Aditya Joshi, working with Luci’s pastry chef, has slightly reduced the sugar and added a touch of orange zest, finding “that burst of citrus brings the right balance to the classic flavours.”
“The secret lies in perfectly soaking the ladyfingers in marsala, just two quick dips, before layering them with rich, whipped mascarpone cream," Joshi says.
Iced Vovo
Gaffney’s Bakery, 63-65 High Street, Heathcote
Every day there are queues for pies at Gaffney’s Bakery and Pie Kitchen in regional Heathcote. The massive choice includes a triple chilli braised beef pie, vegan roasted vegetable pastie with a hint of coriander and a chicken parma pie.
Just to the left of the overwhelming pie display is a cabinet heaving with sweet temptation. And sitting pretty in pink is a collection of freshly-made, double-the-packet-sized, Iced VoVo bikkies—in their buttery, pink fondant icing, strip of jam and coconut glory. An ideal perk-up snack for the drive home.
Bombe Alaska
Donovans, 40 Jacka Boulevard, St Kilda
Some things never change, with diners ecstatic that St Kilda institution Donovans is still making classic Bombe Alaska, served amid a fireplace and an ocean view.The fancy diner makes the sugar overload to be shared by two, hence the hefty price tag.
It describes the dessert as “our old favourite with chocolate hazelnut ice cream and toasted meringue.”
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