How I Holiday: A Michelin-Star Chef’s Guide To Singapore’s Cheap Eats And Hawker Markets

Welcome to How I Holiday, a series of travel stories and recommendations shared by friends of Urban List from Aotearoa and Australia.

Chef Michael Wilson has been in the hospo biz for over 20 years, refining his culinary chops in Melbourne at beloved locals Grossi Florentino and Cutler & Co, before finding his way to Shanghai and Singapore. Naturally, this well-travelled legend knows how to hunt down a great feed—and while his stunning Singapore fine-diner Marguerite has scooped up a Michelin star, the chef's local dining picks aren't going to blow all your cash. Here, Michael shares his insights on Singapore's heavy-hitting food scene, tips for navigating the ever-popular hawker markets and where to find a killer South Indian breakfast. 

Join Michael Wilson in FNQ at Taste Port Douglas for three events: the Lexus Long Lunch, an exclusive Masterclass (places are strictly limited), and live on the Festival Village Main Stage on Saturday 9 August at 3:30 pm, as he shares the secrets behind a legendary laksa.

Why is Singapore special to you?

Singapore is home for me now, but I’ve always felt a deep connection to its history as a trading port and its diversity as a multicultural city. I love that people from all over the world can come here, settle and build a life. Ports are often underappreciated—they’ve not only moved goods but have long been powerful platforms for the exchange of ideas, culture and knowledge. Singapore embodies that spirit.

What's the food scene like?

It’s incredible—cooking here is like playing in the A League. As a gourmet destination, Singapore can stand toe-to-toe with any top foodie city in the world. The food culture here is world-class, offering something for every taste and budget - from fantastic hawker stalls to high-end Michelin-starred restaurants. Singaporeans are serious food lovers and genuinely proud of their local food scene. It’s vibrant, diverse, and always evolving—there’s always something new and exciting to discover.

Where's the best spot for a sunset sip?

You can go high or go low—but it has to be at Marina Bay. For sweeping aerial views, Spago at the top of Marina Bay Sands is my go-to. It’s a stunning perch to watch the city light up. If you're after something more relaxed, Lantern at the Fullerton Bay Hotel which sits on a lower floor is perfect—chilled vibes and cocktails by their glorious pool (and overlooking the Marina Bay).

Let's talk cheap eats. Where's on your hit list?

Hawker centres are the beating heart of Singapore’s food culture—and the best way to try a wide variety of local favourites under one roof. Think laksa, chicken rice, carrot cake, roti prata and masala dosai.

I love Maxwell Food Centre for its famous Tian Tian Hainanese Chicken Rice. Closer to home, Tekka Centre is my go-to. It’s my neighbourhood gem that serves up incredible biryani.

Image Credit: Tian Tian Hainanese Chicken Rice | Instagram

Ask any Singaporean and they’ll each swear by a different favourite hawker centre. A good rule of thumb? Follow the longest queue—it usually leads to something worth waiting for.

For something a little more tucked away (and a bit pricier, but still great value), I love Yang Ming Seafood in Ubi. It’s hidden in an industrial estate and a real find. The Andrew Lobster and Black Pepper Crab are top-notch, but my absolute favourite is the Crab Bee Hoon—vermicelli braised in a rich, savoury gravy and topped with mounds of crab. It’s a total flavour bomb. This is food designed for sharing, family style. Go with a big group and you’ll eat well without breaking the bank.

Image Credit: Yang Ming Seafood | Website

Where's the best spot for a good breakfast? 

MTR Singapore on Serangoon Road is my favourite South Indian breakfast spot. Everything is made fresh, using only the best ingredients—and you can really taste the difference. Their Uddina Vada is crisp on the outside, fluffy on the inside and even more delicious dunked into their punchy sambar.

Image Credit: MTR Singapore | Facebook

Komala Vilas is an institution (it’s been operating since 1947). Their paper masala dosa is epic—so thin and crispy it shatters when you break into it and it’s filled with this warm spiced potato curry. I also have a soft spot for their fried puris with chickpea curry—it’s the ultimate comfort food. I always finish with a glass of hot masala tea. It wakes me up and somehow makes the whole morning feel a little brighter.

Image Credit: Komala Vilas | Instagram

For a local breakfast Killiney Kopitiam on Killiney Road serves up awesome kaya toast, soft boiled eggs (just add soy sauce and white pepper) and local coffee. Their chicken curry is perfect with a spongy French Loaf to soak up the gravy.

Image Credit: Killiney Kopitam | Instagram

If you’re heading East, Mr & Mrs Mohgan’s Super Crispy Roti Prata in Joo Chiat lives up to its name—super crispy and utterly addictive. I’m a classic plain prata kinda man, but their coin pratas are definitely worth trying, especially dipped in their rich mutton curry (I’m Team Mutton Curry all the way). Just be prepared to queue—it’s popular for a reason.

What are the best boutique hotels?

If you love a bit of history and charm, Maxwell Reserve Hotel is a gem. It’s in a 100-year-old British colonial building and a mix of European opulence and modern sophistication. When you walk into the lobby, you’ll spot the owner’s collection of family artifacts dating back to 1709—a nod to polo, Royal India and Singapore’s history. The decor is honestly breathtaking. My wife, Tanvi, is a big fan of their Modern Indian restaurant, Shikar, which is a great bonus, but they’ve also got some beautiful bars to relax and have a drink in. It’s also conveniently located in the Chinatown area, close to some of the best bars and restaurants.

Image Credit: Maxwell Reserve Hotel | Website

If you want to stay somewhere a bit more central near Orchard Road, I’d recommend Artyzen or The Singapore EDITION. Both have stylish vibes and really make you feel like you’re somewhere special with great service and design touches that give both places personality.

What's something that will surprise first-time visitors about Singapore?

It’s not all Crazy Rich Asians glam, I promise! Sure, the city has its share of fancy restaurants, luxury hotels and that iconic skyline, but there’s so much more beneath the surface. If you step outside the central business district, you’ll find vibrant local neighbourhoods, beautiful temples, mosques, bustling hawker centres and local markets that really show you what everyday Singapore life is all about. It’s where the real heart of the city lives.

What's the best event on Singapore's cultural cal?

For me, it’s got to be National Day on 9th August and the whole build-up to it. The rehearsals go on for over a month, packed with amazing performances, jaw-dropping aerial shows and an impressive military procession. You won’t be able to snag tickets to the shows but head down to the Helix Bridge or the promontory @ Marina Bay Sands (which is just a short stroll from our restaurants Marguerite and Hortus at Gardens by the Bay) and catch the fireworks lighting up the sky every Saturday throughout July.