At the tail end of Melbourne’s lengthy lockdowns, restaurateur Chris Lucas opened a string of new restaurants. The quickfire ribbon cuttings were book-ended by the electric Yakimono and already-iconic Grill Americano along Flinders Lane. In between, however, the doors opened to what is arguably Lucas’ magnum opus, SOCIETY, which encompasses SOCIETY Lounge, SOCIETY Dining Room and the adjoining brasserie, Lillian.
On the outset, Lillian may seem somewhat understated compared to the latest Lucas ventures, though that’s part of the sibling diner’s appeal. It’s a certain subtle charm that’s dotted throughout the menu, the venue and the atmosphere it attracts; for you, it might be apparent when kicking things off with the flawless tuna Nicoise salad, and for the solo diner relishing in the signature Lillian cocktail by the bar, it’s perhaps the delicate mix of old-world glamour and relevant sensibilities that make this space a necessary addition to Melbourne’s dining scene. And all of this, was of course, part of Lucas’ plan.
“The cornerstone of what I believe in is marrying the modernity of today's lifestyle, food and design and trying to capture the sense of something we've not had for a long time,” said Lucas.
“As a kid, instead of going to Paris you'd go to Collins St and that would be a really sophisticated experience. It was a real journey, and I'm just trying to bring back that glamour in some ways.”
This process is a collaborative effort by Lucas and his team at Lillian—and across the restaurateur's locales for that matter—where everyone’s input plays a role in seeing out the venue’s vision.
Beginning at the menu, Lucas doesn’t shy away from the fact there are one or two dishes (like that tuna Nicoise salad) with his signature on it—which is surely a perk of owning a restaurant—though it’s clear from the crab linguine right across to the pièce de résistance chargrilled 650g rib eye, that what’s on the table in front of you comes from a versatile team at the top of their game.
“There's no one hero here, it's really a team effort and I think that's why we get such great outcomes. We've got lots of different people with lots of different backgrounds and different skill-sets, and that’s where the ideas come from.
“At the end of the day, restaurants are like a family. It's not a sort-of hospitality dictatorship. One person doesn't rule the roost so to speak. And I think that's also what makes my restaurants special, is that they all believe in what we're doing. They believe in the vision of what we're trying to do with each restaurant and they live and breathe it, and I think when people come to the restaurant—well, I'm hoping—is that they see that and they feel that energy,” Lucas said.
And when you get granular, the amalgamation of expertise is clear within the team. Executive chef Luke Headon (ex-Fat Duck) can be seen behind the pass, heading up the kitchen while leading with a Euro-leaning, seafood-heavy menu. Meanwhile, the wine list (and 10,000 bottle-strong cellar) has been curated by sommelier Loic Avril to ensure your meal’s rounded out appropriately.
In Lucas’ eyes, though, Lillian Brasserie wasn’t just created for an indulgent meal and a memorable dining experience, or simply for a little hedonism. Rather, it’s a piece of the puzzle which is rebuilding Melbourne, and any wonder as to if that succession of openings as lockdowns lifted was a coincidence can be quashed knowing that the restaurateur has been, and is in it, for the long haul.
“In some ways I could have walked away from a lot of these restaurants, and if I had my financial hat on, I probably should have. It took a fair amount of determination, and belief in this city to push through the trauma and financial hardship to come out the other end.
“I'm an eternal optimist, and I think that we'll come back bigger and better. It's going to take a little bit of time, but I really do think that Melbourne's going to come back and be one of the great cities of the world, and it's going to be even more about its culture, its food culture, its entertainment culture, its events.”
Lillian Brasserie is open Monday 5pm until 10pm, and Tuesday through Sunday 12pm until 10pm. And in case you were wondering, absolutely order the tuna Nicoise salad.
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Image credit: supplied