If you’re dreaming of a winter escape that trades skyscrapers for salt spray, crackling fires, and coastal hikes with zero crowds — Esperance is calling.
Best known for its otherworldly beaches and turquoise bays, you’d be forgiven for thinking it’s strictly a summer spot. But winter? That’s when the real magic happens. Moody skies. Pink lake flyovers. Cosy cafes and off-grid cabins. Roos on the beach and no need for sunscreen.
Whether you’re chasing stormy coastal walks, soul-warming food, or a front-row seat to southern right whales cruising by the bay, Esperance delivers.
Here’s your ultimate list of the best things to do, eat, sip and see in WA’s wild south this winter.
Where To Stay In Esperance
Esperance Chalet Village
Image credit: Esperance Chalet Village | Instagram
This dreamy little patch just outside town is home to whitewashed A-frames and restored fishing shacks that feel straight out of a Pinterest board. There’s bikes to borrow, fire pits to linger around, and enough coastal charm to tempt a full sea change. It books out fast for good reason — you’ve been warned.
Heyscape Tiny Cabins
Heyscape’s off-grid cabins are scattered across WA, but the Esperance lineup might just be their best yet. Think epic views, outdoor tubs, and uninterrupted serenity. There are four to choose from, but we’re calling ‘Peter’ the standout — perched near Cape Le Grand National Park with front-row seats to Lucky Bay, Hellfire Bay, and Frenchman’s Peak. Soak in a starlit bath, glass of wine in hand, and try not to feel too smug about your life choices.
Cowrie Cottage
If swag life isn’t your thing but you still want to stay close to the action, Cowrie Cottage is your perfect middle ground. Just a short stroll from town, this breezy coastal Airbnb sleeps up to eight and blends beachy ease with all the modern comforts. Ideal for families or group getaways that don’t skimp on style.
Salt & Soul Beach Shack
Right across from the foreshore, Salt & Soul Beach Shack is a light, airy stay that nails the relaxed coastal brief. With soft tones, thoughtful details and a setup that’s kid-friendly without sacrificing style (bunk beds and bookshelf nook included), it’s ideal for families chasing comfort and convenience, all within walking distance of the beach.
Lucky Bay Campground
Image credit: Explore Parks WA | Website
For the whole ‘sleeping-with-roos’ experience, pitch your tent at Lucky Bay Campground. You’ll be waking up on one of the most iconic beaches in the region, with blinding white sand and turquoise water just metres away. Facilities are basic, but the views more than make up for it.
Le Grand Beach Campground
Tucked inside Cape Le Grand National Park, this low-key coastal campground is all about peace, quiet, and postcard-worthy views. You’ll need to BYO everything and prepare to fully switch off, but that’s half the appeal.
Alexander Bay Campsite
Alexander Bay is first-come, first-served, but totally worth the early start to claim your spot. With epic beach views and that full-blown back-to-nature feel, this spot is perfect for anyone craving simplicity and solitude.
RAC Esperance Holiday Park
Just across from Esperance Bay, this family-friendly park has a little something for everyone. Choose from cabins, villas or powered sites, and make use of the playground, camp kitchen, and heated pool. It’s clean, convenient, and a great choice if you like your camping with a few creature comforts.
Where To Eat & Drink In Esperance
FishFace
Image credit: FishFace | Website
More than your average fish and chip joint, FishFace is where local seafood gets the respect it deserves. From Tuesday to Friday, the menu showcases seasonal specials made with freshly caught fare and Esperance-grown produce. Mondays, though? It’s all about Sri Lankan soul food, with owner Jayani Alexsandergé sharing her family’s recipes in a warm and flavour-packed takeaway menu. One venue, two delicious personalities.
Taylor St Quarters
Right on the waterfront, Taylor St Quarters is one of those spots that nails both vibe and flavour. Think Esperance pork belly with cauliflower purée, colourful cocktails featuring local spirits, and ocean views that make everything taste better. Whether it’s a slow lunch or a cruisy dinner date, this one always hits the spot.
Bread Local
Once a Friday-only hidden gem, Bread Local has become a full-blown carb lover’s destination. Tucked just out of town, this cult bakery slings slow-fermented sourdough, flaky croissants, and cinnamon buns that have locals lining up early. The garden space is lush, the vibes are chill, and if you’re smart, you’ll preorder online to avoid heartbreak. Grab a hot drink, park yourself under a tree, and consider cancelling the rest of your plans.
Cloud Eleven Esperance
A local fave for good reason, Cloud Eleven is more than just a cute coffee stop. This small-batch roastery and kitchen dishes up brekky and lunch with a subtle Japanese twist — all served in a light-filled space packed with greenery. The coffee is roasted in-house, the teas are handcrafted, and the ambiance is equal parts zen and buzzy. Come for a slow morning, stay for the second coffee.
Lucky Bay Brewing
Image credit: Lucky Bay Brewing | Instagram
If you only hit one brewery in Esperance, make it this one. Lucky Bay Brewing uses locally grown barley and rotates through a mix of crisp lagers, hop-forward ales and seasonal drops you won’t find anywhere else. Throw in live tunes, woodfired pizza, and friendly brewery tours and you’ve got yourself the perfect laidback afternoon.
Bistro Louis
Channelling Parisian bistro with a coastal twist, Bistro Louis blends classic French technique with fresh WA produce. Expect steak frites, buttery sauces, and beautifully plated seafood in a space that feels both intimate and elegant. Whether it’s a long lunch or romantic dinner, this one feels like quiet luxury.
Must-See Spots In Esperance
Wander Esperance’s Wild Beaches
Image credit: Explore Parks WA | Website
Even when it’s cool out, Esperance’s beaches are pure magic. Rug up, grab a takeaway coffee, and wander the white sands free from summer crowds. Lucky Bay is the obvious hero (yes, the roos are still showing up), but Hellfire Bay, Twilight Bay and Blue Haven are equally breathtaking. For an even quieter stroll, check out Shearwater Bay, or swing by Thistle Cove to hear the wind play a tune through Whistling Rock.
Browse The Esperance Growers Market
Every second Saturday morning (9–11am), the locals roll out the good stuff. Think fresh produce, native blooms, handmade wares and community vibes so wholesome you’d hang around all day if you could. Esperance Growers Market is a great way to start the weekend (and the perfect place to pick up snacks for your adventures).
Soar Over The Iconic Pink Lake
Lake Hillier isn’t just pink. It’s bubblegum, barbie-core, hot-damn-is-that-real? pink. Sitting pretty on Middle Island, this natural wonder is only viewable by scenic flight — and yep, it’s 100% worth it. Book a spot with Helispirit or another local crew and prepare for some seriously otherworldly aerial shots. The contrast of pink lake, blue sea, and rugged coastline? Unreal.
Visit Esperance Stonehenge
Built from 137 blocks of local pink granite and aligned with the summer and winter solstices, this full-size replica of the original UK Stonehenge is both a historical tribute and a total "wait, what?" moment. It’s quirky, impressive, and oddly majestic in person. A really fun stop that’s perfect for curious minds and offbeat photo ops.
Escape To Woody Island
Image credit: Woody Island Eco Tours | Instagram
Part of the Recherche Archipelago, Woody Island is the kind of wild island escape you’d expect to have to fly overseas for. Jump on a day trip or stay overnight in one of the eco tents, then spend your time hiking, wildlife spotting, or snorkelling through clear, fish-filled waters. Gear is available to hire from the island kiosk, and winter visits mean fewer crowds, more chill, and scenery that hits extra hard.
Take Your Drone Game To New Heights
Want to capture that iconic Esperance coastline like a pro? Book in with Propeller Project for one of their drone photography workshops. You’ll learn the ins and outs of drone technique, composition and editing plus get insider tips on where to shoot for maximum impact.
Watch The Whales Cruise Through Town
From June to October, Esperance becomes a front-row seat to the annual whale migration. Head to Rotary Lookout, Observatory Point or the headland at Twilight Beach to spot humpbacks and southern right whales showing off with breaches and tail slaps. Or for a VIP experience, book a whale-watching tour with Esperance Island Cruises and see them up close as they cruise through the Recherche Archipelago. Marine magic, guaranteed.
Keen to keep the road trip rolling?
Head west and see what Albany has to offer. We’ve rounded up all the must-visits here.
Image credit: Tourism WA
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