We’re Eating Brunch Like Scandi ‘It’ Girls Thanks To This Pint-Sized Cafe

Melbourne is breakfast royalty. Our fair city easily has the most elevated cafe game in the country, if not the world. Our wake-up late for a leisurely coffee and a bite culture is emulated globally. Just look at Brunswick East Cafe in London, Fitzroy Espresso Bar in Guadalajara or the unashamedly named Australian Coffee Shop in Istanbul.

But what happens when you hit peak breakfast? Someone flips the game and you get a spot like Lilijana Eatery in Port Melbourne. It’s brunch, but not as you know it.

The pocket-sized cafe is heavily European influenced and while it has a distinctly continental feel it leans into Eastern Europe and the Nordic countries, which breathes a sense of freshness into the plates.

Inside the decor is understated and homely but oh so fulfilling, just like the menu. This isn’t Instagram food (but it still will look good on your grid), it’s food for the soul. 

Think platters with kransky, blood sausage, Nordic egg spread, spinach and goats cheese, spiced butter beans and house-made sourdough that’s gorgeously springy like a cake all served on vintage China. There’s a series of these picky plates: the Danish house-cured salmon with ricotta dill spread, cucumbers and jammy egg, and jamon serrano with salami, liverwurst, cheese,  mustard and olives to name a couple. 

Accompanying the meals there’s sandwiches and deli snacks, our fave was the skagenröra, a Swedish creamy prawn salad with dill housed in a soft little bun. To finish, atop the counter there’s a bountiful cabinet of pastries with all your usual suspects, but the cinnamon twist andtheir take on a custard tart will fix your sugar cravings.

The European influence and hospitality at Lilijana harks back to heritage. Owners Chris and Christine Wong have a history in the industry, from restaurants to catering to a food trailer. She says their venture was named after her late Nonna, who was born in current-day Slovenia. She migrated to Melbourne, and spent all her 80 years spreading love and food to those around her. 

Chris played ice-hockey while abroad in both Sweden and Finland where he picked up Nordic techniques in pickling,  evident by the Noma book behind the counter and the technicolour jars of pickles accompanying. He also has a solid resume, having spent time at 400 Gradi, while pastry chef Bianca Capraro spent time at both 400-Gradi and To Be Frank.

Christine says they wanted to replicate the kind of hospitality they grew up with at Lilijana, and after eating there? You’ll see they truly succeeded.

Check out their full menu on Instagram or at their website.