If you’re dreaming of a winter escape that trades skyscrapers for salt spray, crackling fires, and coastal hikes with zero crowds — Esperance is calling.
Best known for its otherworldly beaches and turquoise bays, you’d be forgiven for thinking it’s strictly a summer spot. But winter? That’s when the real magic happens. Moody skies. Pink lake flyovers. Cosy cafes and off-grid cabins. Roos on the beach and no need for sunscreen.
Whether you’re chasing stormy coastal walks, soul-warming food, or a front-row seat to southern right whales cruising by the bay, Esperance delivers.
Here’s your ultimate list of the best things to do, eat, sip and see in WA’s wild south this winter.
Where To Stay In Esperance
Esperance Chalet Village
Image credit: Esperance Chalet Village | Instagram
This dreamy little patch just outside town is home to whitewashed A-frames and restored fishing shacks that look plucked straight from a Pinterest board. Surrounded by native bushland and just a short stroll from Bandy Creek Boat Harbour, it’s a grown-up hideaway where the soundtrack is birdsong and waves—not traffic.
Inside, it’s all plush bedding, crisp white interiors, soft linen throws and earthy, coastal tones that make you want to move in permanently. As my friend Mel put it (and she’s done her fair share of WA travel), “The A-frames are so cosy and well-appointed. They’re incredibly styled and Instagrammable with everything you could need.”
Cruiser bikes and kayaks are free to use, so you can hit the beach path or explore the nearby creek, and once the sun sets, it’s all about lingering around the fire pit under the stars. There’s no reception desk—just a smooth self-check-in process and a cold San Pellegrino waiting in your room. Adults only, effortlessly chic, and impossible to forget. This one books out in a heartbeat—don’t say we didn’t warn you.
Heyscape Tiny Cabins
Image credit: Peter The Tiny Cabin By Heyscape | Tristan McKenzie
Heyscape’s off-grid cabins are scattered across WA, but the Esperance lineup might just be their best yet. There are four dreamy stays to choose from, but we’re calling ‘Peter’ the standout. Tucked on a working cattle farm near Cape Le Grand National Park—with front-row views of Lucky Bay, Hellfire Bay and Mount Merivale—it’s the kind of place that makes you forget what day it is.
Inside, you’ve got everything you need: a queen bed with plush bedding, a well-equipped kitchenette, luxe bathroom with an indoor shower, and even board games and hot water bottles for cosy nights in. But the real magic? An outdoor bath under the stars. Add a glass of local wine and it’s basically a rom-com montage waiting to happen.
With self-check-in, zero roughing it, and a big focus on sustainability, Heyscape nails that sweet spot between adventure and comfort. Whether you’re posted up in the olive grove or gazing at the peaks, this is slow living at its absolute best.
Cowrie Cottage
If swag life isn’t your thing but you still want to stay close to the action, Cowrie Cottage is your perfect middle ground. Just a short stroll from town and The Castletown Quays Beach, this breezy coastal Airbnb sleeps up to eight and blends laidback beach vibes with all the modern comforts.
Set on a quiet street with easy access to parks, groceries and fish and chips (very important), it’s a solid base for families or groups keen to explore Esperance without skimping on style. Spend your days adventuring, then come home for drinks on the back deck or a backyard game in the sunshine.
The Rizzo
Image credit: The Rizzo | Airbnb
This picture-perfect cottage may be small, but it’s full of charm. Freshly renovated in 2024, The Rizzo is full of cosy vibes, thoughtful design, and luxe little touches that turn a simple stay into something special.
The aesthetics are a blend of modern meets retro with a rattan bed framed by floral wallpaper, playful patterned tiling, fun rugs, and a full barista-style espresso machine that’s reason enough to book. Outside, you’ve got a spacious backyard with a patio, fire pit and plenty of sun-dappled spots to kick back with a book.
Tucked in a quiet neighbourhood just five minutes from town and the Great Ocean Drive, it’s the kind of spot that makes you want to slow down and settle in.
Salt & Soul Beach Shack
Right across from the foreshore, Salt & Soul Beach Shack is a light, airy stay that gets the relaxed coastal brief. Soft tones and a warm, beachy aesthetic set the scene with open-plan living, bunk beds for the littlies, and a sweet little reading nook for quiet moments.
It’s kid-friendly (yet beachy-perfection), and just a five-minute stroll from the town centre, with shopping, restaurants and the shoreline all within easy reach. With two bedrooms, a queen pull-out in the lounge, a fully equipped kitchen, enclosed yard, bikes and a BBQ, all you need to do is unpack and unwind.
Elements at West Beach
Image credit: Elements at West Beach | Airbnb
Uninterrupted 180-degree ocean views? Yes, please. Atop the hill overlooking the phenomenal West Beach, Elements is a show-stopping holiday home that puts Esperance’s raw coastal beauty front and centre—literally. With floor-to-ceiling windows wrapping the entire front of the house, you’ll be soaking up that Southern Ocean panorama whether it’s a bluebird day or a wild winter storm.
Inside, it’s absolute relaxed luxury with five spacious bedrooms, multiple living areas, a modern kitchen, barista coffee machine and dreamy rock feature walls. The open-plan main living space flows onto a huge deck, while out back you’ll find a second alfresco area framed by festoon lighting, monkey bars for the kids, and a BBQ setup for laidback afternoons.
But let’s be real—it’s the master bedroom that steals the show. With views that rival the patio and sunlight pouring in from dawn to dusk, waking up here might just ruin you for all other mornings. There's also a fully self-contained studio upstairs with its own king bed, day bed, and kitchenette—ideal for extended family or anyone who likes a little extra space.
It’s not the cheapest stay in town, but honestly? That view...worth it.
Lucky Bay Campground
Image credit: Explore Parks WA | Website
For the whole ‘sleeping-with-roos’ experience, pitch your tent at Lucky Bay Campground. You’ll be waking up on one of the most iconic beaches in the region, with blinding white sand and turquoise water just metres away from your swag. Facilities are basic, but when the views are this good and kangaroos are casually sunbaking nearby, you really don’t need much else.
Le Grand Beach Campground
Set within Cape Le Grand National Park, this low-key coastal campground is all about peace, quiet, and postcard-worthy views. Set behind the dunes at the base of Mount Le Grand, it’s a small, scenic spot with just 14 sites—perfect if you’re craving space and solitude.
You’ll need to BYO everything and be ready to switch off completely, but that’s half the charm. There’s a sheltered BBQ area with prep space, sinks, and picnic tables—but otherwise, it’s just you, the beach, and distant island peaks for company.
Alexander Bay Campsite
Alexander Bay is first-come, first-served—but absolutely worth the early start to snag a spot. Nestled among the banksias and just a short stroll from the beach, this off-grid hideout serves up serious back-to-nature energy, with ocean views, salty air and zero distractions.
It’s 4WD access only, but that also means fewer crowds and the freedom to cruise along the sand to find your own little slice of paradise. From here, you can go fishing, snorkelling, kayaking or explore the nearby dunes—then kick back by the campfire and soak up the silence. Bonus points for being able to bring the furry friend (on a lead).
RAC Esperance Holiday Park
Literally across from Esperance Bay, this family-friendly holiday park has a little something for every kind of traveller. Whether you’re rolling in with the van or booking a breezy studio or villa, you’ll have access to all the good stuff like a massive, heated pool, full camp kitchen, table tennis, and a nature playground for the little ones.
It’s clean, convenient and pet-friendly too, so even your four-legged mate can join the adventure. With powered sites, self-contained stays, and an easy-going style, it’s a solid base for your next escape—with just the right amount of comfort.
Where To Eat & Drink In Esperance
FishFace
Image credit: FishFace | Website
More than your average fish and chip joint, FishFace is where local seafood gets the love and respect it deserves. From Tuesday to Friday, there’s elevated fish and chip type affair as well as a chalkboard-style menu that changes daily—driven by whatever came in with the catch and what’s in season locally. Think dishes like grilled Abrolhos scallops on cauliflower purée, bass cod rillettes with garlic toast, or Esperance octopus marinated in herbs and smoky paprika. It’s refined, flavour-packed and proudly local.
Then there’s Monday nights, when the whole place flips into Sri Lankan soul food mode. Owner Jayani Alexsandergé shares her family’s recipes in a vibrant menu that brings serious spice and heart to the table. One venue, two delicious personalities—and yes, it’s BYO.
Taylor St Quarters
Right on the waterfront, Taylor St Quarters is one of those spots that strikes the perfect chord between mood and menu. Run by a passionate local fam, the kitchen is a display of fine food made with the freshest produce from WA’s land and sea. The menu changes with the seasons, but signature dishes like Esperance pork belly with cauliflower purée tend to stick around for good reason.
It’s got serious all-day appeal—drop in for coffee and cake, pull up for a cocktail starring local spirits, or settle in for a cruisy long lunch with an extensive wine list showcasing the best of the South West. Add ocean views and a candlelit buzz when dinner rolls around, and you’ve got a spot that always delivers.
Bread Local
Once a Friday-only hidden gem, Bread Local has become a full-blown carb lover’s destination. Just out of town, this cult bakery slings slow-fermented sourdough, flaky croissants, and cinnamon buns that have locals lining up early. The garden space is lush, the vibes are chill, and if you’re smart, you’ll preorder online to avoid heartbreak. Grab a hot drink, park yourself under a tree, and consider cancelling the rest of your plans.
Cloud Eleven Esperance
A local fave for good reason, Cloud Eleven is more than just a cute coffee stop. This specialty roastery and Japanese-inspired kitchen blends that perfect balance between zen and buzz, dishing up thoughtful brekky and lunch fare in a light-filled space overflowing with greenery.
The coffee? Roasted on-site by owner-barista Glen. The tea? Handcrafted and locally packaged in-house. And the food? Think savoury okonomiyaki waffles, pork and veggie gyoza in house dashi, and truffled miso mushrooms on toast. Sweet tooths should make a beeline for the fluffy yuzu curd hotcake—it’s every bit as dreamy as it sounds. Come for a slow morning, stay for the second coffee.
Lucky Bay Brewing
Image credit: Lucky Bay Brewing | Instagram
If you only hit one brewery in Esperance, make it this one. Lucky Bay Brewing uses locally grown barley and rotates through a mix of crisp lagers, hop-forward ales and seasonal drops you won’t find anywhere else. Throw in live tunes, woodfired pizza, and friendly brewery tours and you’ve got yourself the perfect laidback afternoon.
If you only hit one brewery in Esperance, make it this one. Lucky Bay Brewing is as local as it gets—using raw barley direct from nearby farms to craft a seriously tasty line-up of beers. In fact, they’re the only brewery in WA doing it this way, which not only reduces their carbon footprint but supports the region’s farming community too.
From crisp lagers and hoppy ales to one-off seasonal drops, everything is brewed with love, science and a whole lot of local pride. The beers pair perfectly with their woodfired pizzas and rotating Thursday “Farm to Flame” menu (hello, slow-cooked oyster blade and ricotta-stuffed capsicums), and there’s always something happening with live tunes, family-friendly spaces and even brewery tours if you want a behind-the-scenes peek.
Based in a breezy venue at Bandy Creek, just minutes from Wylie Bay and the drive to Cape Le Grand, this is as good as it gets for a post-beach hangout. Grab a tasting paddle, kick back under the trees, and soak it all in—with dogs, kids and even the resident kangaroo joey welcome. Oh, and don’t leave without a freshly canned takeaway to keep the good times going.
Bistro Louis
Channelling Parisian bistro with a coastal twist, Bistro Louis blends classic French technique with fresh Esperance produce for a dining experience that’s quietly luxurious and full of heart. By day, it’s all croque madames, buttery pastries and expertly brewed coffee in a relaxed café setting. By night, the lights dim and the white tablecloth energy kicks in—with al fresco or intimate indoor tables perfect for date night or a long, slow dinner.
Chef Roger Poutet brings his family’s culinary legacy to the kitchen, having trained under his father at their Melbourne restaurant, Le Gaulois. Now he’s passing the torch to his daughter and apprentice, Kitty, with a menu that’s equal parts classic and creative whilst showcasing local produce like Pink Lake eggs, Mam’s vegetables grown down the road and fresh seafood straight from the Bay of Isles.
The drinks list is equally as special, with French and WA wines by the glass or carafe, house cocktails from Monsieur Paul, and a local nod via Lucky Bay Brewing. Intimate, elegant, and full of soul—it’s a little slice of France by the sea.
Must-See Spots In Esperance
Wander Esperance’s Wild Beaches
Image credit: Explore Parks WA | Website
Even when it’s cool out, Esperance’s beaches are pure magic. Rug up, grab a takeaway coffee, and wander the white sands free from summer crowds. Lucky Bay is the obvious hero (yes, the roos are still showing up for their close-up), but you’ll be just as wowed by the turquoise waters of Hellfire Bay, Twilight Bay and Blue Haven.
For something a little more secluded, head to Shearwater Bay for a quiet stroll, or make your way to Thistle Cove and let the wind sing to you through Whistling Rock. The names alone are reason enough to go exploring.
Browse The Esperance Growers Market
Every second Saturday morning from 9 to 11am, you’ll find the Esperance Growers Market at the Scout Hall filled with fresh produce, native blooms, handmade goodies and all the small-town charm you could ask for. From crisp fruit and veggies to homemade sauces and pickled delights, this is where Esperance’s community spirit really shines.
It’s the best place to kick off your weekend, chat to growers, and stock up on snacks for your day’s adventures—just don’t be surprised if you end up staying longer than planned.
Soar Over The Iconic Pink Lake
Image credit: Lake Hillier | Tourism WA
This is the shot. The one you’ve seen in travel ads, tourism reels, and on more than a few bucket lists. Lake Hillier isn’t just pink—it’s bubblegum, Barbie-core, hot-damn-is-that-real pink. Perched on Middle Island and best viewed by air, this otherworldly lake is a huge part of why people flock to Esperance—and unlike Hutt Lagoon up north, it holds its vibrant hue all year round. Iconic? Absolutely.
To see it in all its glory, you’ll need to take to the skies. Book a scenic flight with Helispirit or another local crew and prepare to have your jaw well and truly dropped. The contrast between the neon-pink water, surrounding blue sea and rugged coastline is something else entirely. West Aussie natural wonders don’t get more photogenic than this.
Visit Esperance Stonehenge
Built from 137 blocks of local pink granite and aligned with the summer and winter solstices, this full-size replica of the original UK Stonehenge is both a historical tribute and a total "wait, what?" moment. It’s quirky, impressive, and oddly majestic in person. A really fun stop that’s perfect for curious minds and offbeat photo ops.
Yes, there’s a full-sized Stonehenge replica in Esperance—and yes, it’s every bit as quirky and impressive as it sounds. Built from 137 massive blocks of locally quarried pink granite, this towering structure mirrors what the original UK Stonehenge would have looked like around 1950 BC. It’s the only one of its kind in the world, and whether you’re into ancient history, curious architecture or just want a cracking photo, this offbeat stop is well worth it.
Aligned with the summer and winter solstices, the structure puts on a pretty magical show when the sun hits just right—casting rays through the Heel Stones onto the Altar Stone in a moment that’s both powerful and a little surreal. Even outside of the solstice, there’s something otherworldly about standing in the middle of those 8-metre-high trilithons, with sound echoing in strange and beautiful ways.
Escape To Woody Island
Image credit: Woody Island Eco Tours | Instagram
Just 15km off the coast of Esperance, Woody Island is the kind of wild island escape you’d usually expect to fly overseas for. Part of the untouched Recherche Archipelago, it’s all rugged cliffs, quiet beaches, and crystal-clear water teeming with marine life—and it’s a must-do while you’re in the region.
Jump on a day trip with Woody Island Eco Tours or stay overnight in one of the eco tents or safari huts for the full castaway experience (with a splash of glamp). Spend your time bushwalking along coastal trails, snorkelling with colourful fish, or spotting resident wildlife as you unwind into island time.
Black Jack’s Bar & Kiosk has your lunch and gear hire sorted—plus a cold drink waiting from 10am. And if you’re visiting in winter? Even better. The scenery hits harder, the island’s quieter, and the sense of escape feels truly next level.
Take Your Drone Game To New Heights
Want to capture that jaw-dropping Esperance coastline like a pro? Book a drone photography workshop with Propeller Project and take your content skills to the next level. You’ll learn all the essentials—from flight technique and framing to editing tips that make your shots pop—plus get the inside word on the best local spots to film for max visual impact. This is one fun way to see Esperance from a whole new angle.
Watch The Whales Cruise Through Town
Image credit: Whale Watching Esperance | Australia's Golden Outback
From June to October, Esperance turns into a front-row seat for one of nature’s greatest shows. Humpbacks and southern right whales glide through the pristine waters of the Recherche Archipelago, often breaching and tail-slapping like they know you’re watching.
For land-based viewing, head to Rotary Lookout, Observatory Point or the headland at Twilight Beach and scan the horizon—you might just catch a pod putting on a show. Want the VIP treatment? Jump aboard a tour with Esperance Island Cruises and get up close to these gentle giants as they cruise past offshore islands. Seeing these gentle giants is nothing short of an awe-inspiring and humbling experience. I can honestly never get enough and hey—that drone masterclass will come in handy.
Keen to keep the road trip rolling?
Head west and see what Albany has to offer. We’ve rounded up all the must-visits here.
Image credit: Tourism WA
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