Restaurants

We Called It: This Restaurant Should Be Sydney’s Official Dining Room

By Zo Zhou - 21 Sep 2015

When you first enter The Dining Room at Park Hyatt Sydney, you get pretty distracted by the unadulterated view of the Opera House. It’s quintessentially Sydney, and executive chef Franck Detrait carries that same essence through to the menu. This is beautifully local eating at one of the best Sydney restaurants, with a seasonal narrative that’s as playful and visually stunning as it is delicious.

To start, the escargots garden is a tribute to spring (yep, we do mean snails, and if you’re ever going to try them, this is the place!). They’re more tender than you’ll believe, and with a malty edible soil crumble, they’re a lovely balance of textures too.

Despite his French background, Franck is dedicated to seeking out Australian ingredients, and particularly local produce. The freshness of the local snow crab and avocado for example is hard to dispute, and the native finger lime adds a unique and refreshing citrus touch, while the apple keeps things interesting.

In true Sydney fashion, the flavours here also represent cultures from around the globe, which are well represented in the kitchen. Franck’s approach is a collaborative one, so much of the menu is a result of experiments gone right, combining unexpected combinations of sweet and savoury, east and west, that still work together. The kangaroo loin is a real testament to this. Sourced from the Darling River, this special Aussie cut is made noteworthy with beetroot and raspberry, and daikon and sumac. From the mains, the Tasmanian salmon offsets the smoky yet moreish accident that was burnt celeriac, with a tangy rhubarb and cider vinegar.

There are two star mains that really get us excited though, and should not be missed. The Rangers Valley Angus beef cheek is an umami-dense dish made camera-worthy with delicate enoki mushrooms, and a little different with kombu bouillon and apple pureé. The rich bouillon stock is poured over at the table for both a little theatre and to harmonise the temperature of the dish.

The free-range chicken is another playful take on what would otherwise be a pretty standard main. When Franck was designing the dish, the season sprung to mind (forgive the Dad joke, this dish is awesome). The chickens Franck sources are corn-fed, so in a cheeky nod to the beginnings of life, the dish incorporates two types of corn—smoky charred corn and popcorn.

In a final nod to spring, the red and black berries is the perfect finish to a garden-esque beginning, and changes ever so slightly with what’s freshest off the vines that morning. The edible soil and chocolate lemon thyme ganache add a layer of intrigue, while the creamy mascarpone and strawberry give guaranteed dessert success.

The major perks of The Dining Room make it easy for you to come as often as you like. Throughout the working week, they’ll park your car for free at lunch so you have more time to appreciate that view and deliberate on your options. And, there are lots of ways you can break down the menu at lunch or dinner, so you can come in for a quick but impressive lunch meeting, or a long tasting lunch for a special occasion. Speaking of special occasions—we’ll meet you at The Spa beforehand for the most relaxing day in the city you’ll ever encounter!


Editor's Note: This article is proudly sponsored by The Dining Room at Park Hyatt Sydney and endorsed by The Urban List. Thank you for supporting the sponsors who make The Urban List possible. Click here for more information on our editorial policy.

Image credit: Daryl Kong 

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