Pei Modern Opens In Sydney | The Verdict

By Ellie Schneider
1st Nov 2014

In only good news for Sydney foodies, Mark Best has opened his lauded Melbourne restaurant, Pei Modern, at The Four Seasons, instantly joining the ranks of Sydney's best new restaurants. Best, who you might also recognise from Marque in Surry Hills (and a couple of MasterChef stints), has created a whimsical dining experience, which showcases bold, primal flavours. In the words of Best, "if it's not delicious, we won't serve it."

So, needless to say, when we visited we expected big things. First off, the decked out open kitchen is a sight for hungry eyes and we instantly notice the blazing wood-fired oven from which would come surf clams with smoked butter, whole Holmbrae chicken and mini pizzas.

The menu, made from the same DNA as Marque (but in a more everyday kind of way), is designed to be shared and is divided into raw seafood, vegetarian options and bigger bites. It's a fusion of modern French bistro and gastronomy, which has been aptly dubbed 'bistronomie'. For those who have eaten at his Melbourne mothership, you can look forward to some iconic dishes that have made there way north, including casarecce pasta with chicken dumplings and lamb shoulder cooked in chamomile.

On this particular day we start with the salt cod croquettes, which are little pops of deliciousness, the cold smoked ocean trout and the kingfish 'ham from the sea'. The burrata is an absolute melt-in-your-mouth must and is served with romanesco and egg yolk jam. Next up is the bar cod with old-fashioned celery, currants and verjuice, which is equally as delightful. For the meat-eaters, standouts include the Kurobuta pork cutlet with fermented blueberries and Ranger's Valley wagyu rump cap. The bespoke drinks list is just an inventive, with house-made syrups, juices, shrubs and infusions making an appearance.

By dessert, we are bursting at the seams but it's too tempting to pass up. Our picks: meringue with white chocolate ganache and blueberries; chocolate tart with eucalyptus cream; and the famed duck egg sauternes with custard and crostoli. It's a sweet, sweet ending.

Head down to Pei Modern to experience one of Sydney's newest restaurants yourself. Trust us, you won't be disappointed!

Pei Loves Summer

On Wednesday 25th February 2015, Pei Modern is holding a very special Pei Loves Summer dinner showcasing the best of their summer menu. Head chef Matt Germanchis will be plating up a special five-course dinner, focusing on the best seafood of the season and Hapi's organic vegetables. With special guests Will & Jules from Joto Fresh Seafood & oyster farmer Ewan McAsh, the evening will be your chance to farewell summer in style! Reserve your place as bookings are limited.


  • 5 Course dinner including a glass of NV Louis Roederer
  • Cost: $95 per person 
  • Date: Wednesday 25 February at 6:30pm at Pei Modern, Four Seasons Hotel Sydney, 199 George St, Sydney
  • Bookings at or call 02 9250 3160

For more of Sydney's best restaurants head here.

Image credit: Pei Modern

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