A very, very, VERY wise Italian filmmaker by the name of Federico Fellini once said that life is a combination of magic and pasta. You can find your own moments of magic—a string of green traffic lights, your morning coffee on the house, winning five bucks on a scratchie—but good pasta, really good pasta, is a rare and beautiful thing.
Local Teneriffe institution Beccofino has been dishing up their signature ragu for a decade, becoming a beacon of belly-filling Italian fare. The bar is set pretty high but, like all good sibling rivalries, young Julius isn’t keen on riding Becc’s coattails. He’s a man with a mission, and a kick-ass pizza oven at his disposal.
Open Tuesday to Sunday from lunch ‘til late, Julius Pizzeria dwells in Brisbane’s latest scrubbed-up laneway, below the schmick new Aria development in Fish Lane. Given its prime posi, the Beccofino boys’ new south side bistro will no doubt go down a treat with theatre and gallery goers.
The menu mimics that of Beccofino’s, with a few new variations like beef fillet carpaccio with truffled pecorino and rocket leaves. The pizza choices are a baker’s dozen, with eight rosse (red sauce) and five bianche (white sauce).
Less is more when it comes to true Italian pizza—no stuffed crust, no deep-dish, and not a ring of pineapple in sight. The thin-crust, lightly sauced pizzas are fired up in a Naples-built oven, meaning you can safely take your nonna here without clucks of disapproval.
While a margherita pizza never goes amiss, those of richer tastes will salivate over toppings like traditional fennel sausage, truffle paste, and roasted eggplant. Just for a benchmark, Beccofino’s pies made it onto our list of pizzas to eat before you die.
Less carb-heavy options include the raved-about duck ragu, daily variations of risotto, crumbed veal with goats cheese, and pan-seared chicken with prosciutto, sage and creamy polenta. A lengthy list of wines, classic pre-meal aperitifs and post-meal digestifs will keep your whistle wet and palate cleansed.
Take a seat in front of the kitchen and watch your pizza bubbling away in the inferno, or slurp your prawn linguine beside the Aperol-lined bar in the rear of the venue. Start coming up with your excuses to linger longer now and guarantee enough time to squeeze in a nutella-banana calzone.
The fit-out is so industrial chic it defies any ‘hipster’ labels you might be tempted to slap on it. Pendant bulbs dangle from the ceiling, an exposed-brick archway links the two dining spaces, and a fleet of sophisticated wait-staff work the floor, keeping your glass filled with grapefruit Capi.
While Julius Pizzeria is first-in-best-dressed, there’s also the option of takeaway or snacking on fried calamari with a Peroni in hand at the bar. Side note: gingerbread pudding with caramel ice cream. Fried ricotta and sultana dumplings with vanilla bean ice cream. What are you still doing reading this? Go now!
Travel writer by day, freelance foodie by night and full time cake enthusiast. When Ashton isn’t at one with the keyboard, you’ll likely find her saluting the sun in a yoga class, absorbed in a 90s sitcom marathon, or practising the timeless art of Instagramming around Brisbane. Twitter: @AshtonRigg. Want more from Ashton? Read more here!
Image credits: Tash Sorensen