A crusty loaf, patiently made in the time-honoured way, using a sourdough leaven harnessing the raising power of wild yeasts, is—we think, an object of craft and beauty. So we've rounded up some of Sydney's best artisan loaves. Pass the butter please.
Victoir
The smell pervading from this old-school gem is a reminder that hospitality longevity can always be achieved with consistent quality. The sourdough here is dense and elastic with just the right hint of old-sock tang. It is, quite simply, amazing. Neil Perry knows it. So does Qantas. And word on the street—this is where old mate Zumbo, from down the road, first earned his stripes.
660 Darling Street, Rozelle NSW 2039
Ph: 02 9818 5529
Bake it and they will come. Never has a truer statement been uttered than for the outposts of this baking great. The lines are irksome, as are the well-dressed locals unwilling to get out of your bread-loving way, but these are the loaves of the gods and a warm, crusty sourdough (or sneaky pork and fennel sausage roll) makes everything else worthwhile. An institution that lives up to the hype.
633 Bourke Street, Surry Hills NSW 2010
Ph: 9699 1011
See the website for the Alexandria, Marrickville, Neutral Bay and Potts Point addresses.
Brickfields
This blink and you'll miss it piece of heaven, on an otherwise bleak Cleveland Street, is heaving on weekends with punters lining up for their taste of freshly baked rye sourdough, ciabatta rolls filled to order, or merely to down an espresso and watch the bakers at work. Simple. Artisanal. Quality. Get amongst it.
206 Cleveland Sreet, Chippendale NSW 2008
Ph: 02 9698 7880
With traffic that rivals the King Street congestion come Saturday morning, know that at the end you will be rewarded with a sourdough so dense, intense and malty—you may also need a lemon tart; now that's a combo worth standing in a line for.
195 Missenden Road, Newtown NSW 2065
Ph: 02 8084 1775
See the website for the Bondi and Woollahra locations.
As Bourke Street's younger sibling, CBD had a lot to prove, but the naturally leaved perfection of the loaves (baked daily on site), show this is a family bursting with talent. This is bread with personality, longevity and spirit.
37 – 39 Erskine Street, Sydney NSW 2000
Ph: 02 9290 2229
Another baking giant with outlets spreading love and loaves all over town, Sonoma is synonymous with authentic, genuine and consistent sourdough. What started as a humble family outfit, is now feeding the hospitality industry, families and locals alike across the Sydney CBD. Makes you feel warm and fuzzy, non?
241a Glenmore Road, Paddington NSW 2021
Ph: 02 9331 3601
See website for the Waterloo, Glebe, Woollahra, Bondi, Alexandria.
Also try these café/ bakeries for a great loaf:
Kitchen by Mike, Rosebery
Porch and Parlour, Bondi
Youeni Foodstore, Castle Hill
Labancz, Rozelle
St Malo, Crow's Nest
Flour and Stone, Woolloomooloo
Black Star Pastry, Newtown
Credit image: Nicky&Max
